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Daire, I just completed this one on Sunday. Yours looks mucho more elegant than my Plunger-Baby.
Posted 56 months ago.
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ummn....stupid quest but are you guys using these on DSLRS???!!I'm a bit of a noob so forgivez moi!
Posted 56 months ago.
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I am. I put mine on my 30D.
Posted 56 months ago.
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It looks so cool!!!!How'd you build it??!?!!!
Posted 56 months ago.
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The concept is simple and it looks like Daire's is similar but more refined.
You need a bellows + a lens that covers a larger area than your sensor. A 35mm sensor / or film needs a medium format lens.
Then you need to attach the lens onto the bellows and the bellows to your camera. Mine doesn't even attach to my camera, I just squish it up against my open 30D and click away. As long as the bellows is light-tight and is the right distance away from the sensor (or film shutter), then it should work.
Posted 56 months ago.
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Hah, Your results are 100 times better than mine ! I definately have to get a better lens to play around with, a 2.8 or 3.5 would make things infinitely easier to focus and compose. Which Bronica is that for ? is it a 6x6 ? 6x4.5 ? 6x7 ? I was thinking the bigger the format the better as regards coverage. Plus the plunger also looks a lot more secure than a bellows, If I glued an 80mm MF lens onto the front of that bellows the thing would rip the bellows straight off the front of the camera if I let it go :-)
manavecplan I've got mine stuck onto the front of a Nikon F4, film camera. Adds to the excitement, I've no idea what the shots look like until I get home that evening and develop the film !
Posted 56 months ago.
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You guys are both doing such cool stuff!!I Am hooked onto airchin for this cos I have a DSLR but.....I have a medium format and that rules all digi!!Am thinking of working Daire's bellow's into that...cos it looks so much cooler!!!! ;-)
Posted 56 months ago.
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manavecplan well bear in mind that if you want to jam one of these things onto a medium format camera that you'll need a Large Format lens :-)
Essentially the coverage of whatever lens you use has to be considerably bigger than the film/sensor. So for 35mm you need a medium format lens, for medium format you'll need a large format lens. Although actually for a cropped DSLR you might be able to get away with a 35mm film lens if you don't tilt or shift too much ...
Posted 56 months ago.
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Bingo.
I had to do it with a MF lens. I believe it was a 85mm which in 35mm camera terms is 42.5mm focal length.
Posted 56 months ago.
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 An 85mm in 35mm terms is an 85mm :-)
The focal length of the lenses is always the same, regardless of the format. The confusion arises because of the different sizes of different film formats or the digi-sensors. So in the Medium format world (specifically 6x6) an 85mm is actually -equivalent- to a 40/50mm in the 35mm world, because the coverage is so much bigger. If you focus normally using that lens on your F-50, it'll give almost exactly the same composition as an 85mm 35mm lens attached to your camera.
Posted 56 months ago.
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metropolicity, may I ask how you attached the bellows to your Nikon? That is the one thing I couldn't get right with my Plunger-Baby.
Daire, I used a Zenzanon Bronica 75mm f/2.8. I think it was for the ETRS.
Posted 56 months ago.
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 I used an old body cap which I drilled out until all that was left was the outer rim and just enough space to glue on the base of the bellows.
Posted 56 months ago.
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Daire, I spent three painstaking hours scraping one out. I just couldn't figure out a way to glue or fasten the body cap onto my toilet plunger belows. I see from yours that you have a base of some sort. I think that's probably what I should do.
Originally posted 56 months ago.
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Airchinapilot edited this topic 56 months ago.
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Hah ! by "drilled" I actually meant "painstakingly scraped". I think I had a blister on my finger the next day. I was thinking it was going to be cheap thin plastic. Yikes ! think again !
Posted 56 months ago.
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For glue try using 5 minute epoxy (don't get it inside the camera). Expoxy dries to a hard plastic like substance (it is a polymer) which means it has some stuctural stability. In other words it will act like a base. Rough up the plunger surface and the lens cap surface to improve bonding. Also, make some small holes in the plunger where it mates with the body cap so it is really imbedded in epoxy.
Posted 56 months ago.
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Thanks misterbmr! Off to Home Depot I will go
Posted 56 months ago.
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Hmm ... Metropolicity's bellows looks pretty good aswell, from his stream its a "the bellow's material is a strange plastic conduit meant for cooling your CPU directly with an 80mm fan. It mounts to the camera via a hollowed out body cap, MDF spacers."
Might try looking for that in my local peats over the weekend. Have you any idea how irritating it is to try and get all those folds just right in a bellows ?!?
Posted 56 months ago.
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Yah..it was a plastic conduit, but I think the plunger, if found would be a sturdier option.
It's a pretty good fit with the body cap being the essential piece of equipment for this lens mod.
I got it at a computer parts store, the hardcore ones, not future shop. super cheap and you only need about 3-4 folds to make the lens work.
CAVEAT: when doing this, hold the lens out infront of the body with nothing in between, once you have the distance that it focuses at, this is how much bellows you need to make. Otherwise, it'll become and macro only lens and you can't do shots like this one:
Notice the shift in focus. I love this stuff!
Posted 55 months ago.
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This is my set, made with a broken 28/2.8:
And this is the result:
Now I'm thinking to mount the lens on a sort of "standard" like a large format camera, to have something more solid.
Posted 53 months ago.
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Hello,
there is another option to attach a MF lens to a DSLR with tilting capabilities. You can find on ukrainian photo dealers some adapters for mounting MF lens to Nikon or Canon bayonnets. It costs quite a lot ($125) but I think is adjusted to the MF lens focal length so you can keep a good focus while tilting the lens.
Posted 52 months ago.
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...update : forgot the link : araxfoto.com/accessories/tilt/
Posted 52 months ago.
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wild thread !
wild !
Posted 52 months ago.
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Here is another variation, this time with a 35 mm lens and the bellows is an automotive part (a steering rack boot):
Posted 49 months ago.
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I used an automotive CV boot for mine. A handy tip: check your infinity focus before gluing everything permanently. I have to stretch it forward a little to get to infinity.
 
Posted 49 months ago.
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One possible mounting method to get it to attach to a camera is to use one of the mount adaptors sold on ebay. You should be able to screw or glue the bellows to that and no ruining body caps.
Posted 48 months ago.
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Keith Cooper did something like this a while back on Northlight Images. A bit OTT maybe, but it sure does the trick.
www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/canon-view-came...
Posted 48 months ago.
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did anyone use a larger format lens than normal to make these?
Posted 48 months ago.
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Mine was from a 120 film camera.
Posted 48 months ago.
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ah, thought so...
Posted 48 months ago.
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ok I tried this and ended up making a fancy macro lens instead :( I shoot with a 50D......does that mean i need a medium format lens for this to work?
Posted 20 months ago.
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It is certainly easier with a medium format lens because of the longer flange-to -focal-plane distance of these lenses. However I've made about a dozen successful tilt lenses using old full-frame 35 mm lenses. To make these lenses work, the old mount needs to be removed and replaced with a DIY flexible mount. Here's an example:
Posted 20 months ago.
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These lenses are fun. I made one that retains AF confirmation.
To get the most out of a DIY tilt & shift lens on a 35mm (APS-C, and so on) format you need your lens to be from a larger format. I chose a Bronica Zenza 75mm which is a medium format lens. Because it projects a larger image circle than that of a 35mm lens, when tilting and shifting this lens the effective image circle will still cover the sensor of my dSLR.
To start, I removed the focusing ring. It was large, heavy, unnecessary, and removing it made mounting the bellows MUCH easier.
The bellows are part of a shock boot, which I got from a local 4x4 shop. To determine the proper length just hold the lens in front of your camera body (lenseless and capless) while looking through the viewfinder and moving it in and out. Find the sweet spot and go from there.
The next part you see is an M42 extension tube. If you follow the pictures it's pretty easy to see how it's attached. It kind of just 'pops' in there and then is secured with a zip-tie.
To finish it off, just screw on an M42 to EOS adapter. Mine has an AF confirmation chip, which makes things easy.
And finally, the fruits of my labor:
Posted 20 months ago.
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This is a solution for better control than the rubber tube
Also this
And this one
The ideal wide-angle for the purpose is the Mamiya 35/3,5 for 645 cameras , and the cheaper ( but not really wide ) is the Mir 45/3,5 ( a bit soft as well )
Posted 17 months ago.
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paradefotos said 'I have to stretch it forward a little to get to infinity.'
One of the two enlarger lenses I've tried on my steering rack tilt/shift, has a similar problem (anything closer means pulling it further out!).
I've found adding the shortest of my extension tubes between the camera & the bellows corrects it adequately, and allows me to switch between two focal lengths.
Now I must get round to making the control frame for it...
Originally posted 17 months ago.
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Analyst 1 edited this topic 17 months ago.
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I made a tilt lens
for crop cameras out of Canon FD lenses and tiltable halogen lamp housings
Posted 16 months ago.
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Heh. Ingeniously clever.
Posted 16 months ago.
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Does anyone else encounter regularly overexposed pix when doing this? Sometimes wildly so? Even at a stop or two underexposed, I get this most of the time. I followed the instructions of Jan C. (see above) and am shooting with a Canon 30D. Should I be using a particular setting? I'm shooting at the lowest film speed. Grrr! Help, please!
Posted 13 months ago.
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Rex: I've built and used many (literally dozens) of DIY tilt lenses on Nikon and Canon. On my Nikon (D90) the issue of exposure is mute because that camera can't meter with these lenses, so I just shoot in manual and check the histogram and adjust as needed. On my Canon, I've noticed that tilting the lens throws the metering way off. The metering seems to be fine while the lens is held flat (no tilt). I deal with this by shooting in manual mode and metering the scene with the lens held flat prior to tilting and final focus.
Posted 13 months ago.
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Should depend how you're metering if you're getting any vignetting. Otherwise it shouldn't be any different metering. It's only metering the light coming to the sensor......
If vignetting, it may sense underexposure. Try metering from the center.
Originally posted 13 months ago.
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Wayne Stevenson edited this topic 13 months ago.
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I think the over exposure might be caused by the large image circle of the larger format lens directly hitting the view screen below the prism. The metering is usually up with the prism. If so then this extra light will get metered along with the normal image light bouncing up from the mirror. I would have thought you would have seen this as reduced contrast or ghosting when you are composing the image.
Have a play and see if the over exposure is worse when you are tilting the lens down (and hence pushing the image circle up towards the prism) than up. If so, turn the camera over and try the same shot again with the prism now at the bottom of the camera.
Posted 13 months ago.
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