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how to shoot the moon...

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sKwIzA says:

been wanting to shoot the moon for so many nights now but i couldnt seem to take a good photograph of it. the moon is either too bright or too dark. i couldnt capture the details (markings) on the moon and the visible clouds and stars around it... how do i do this? im using a 18-135mm lens and a tripod. any suggestions?
Posted at 2:13AM, 18 June 2008 PDT (permalink)

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Aisha Adam says:

first this lense not good for ur purpose u shud get lense like 70-300 or more then adjusting ur camera depend to the time u shoot u can do it with 200 for speed and aperture from 9-11 let the iso on 100 and if u go raw it giving u mor deteals
good luck
Originally posted 48 months ago. (permalink)
Aisha Adam edited this topic 48 months ago.

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Rune Johnsson  Pro User  says:

It's pretty much impossible to get both the moon and the surrounding clouds/stars/landscape perfectly exposed. The moon is too bright and the contrast is simply too great.

But you could cheat and shoot two exposures, one where you expose for the moon and one where you expose for the surroundings, and then merge the two images in photoshop.
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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sKwIzA says:

how do u exactly expose for one? ive read about this but i couldnt understand what he meant about two exposures... thanks
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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Something For Kate  Pro User  says:

I shot the moon last night with the same lens and a tripod.

Best thing to do is bracket your exposures - take 3 shots autobracketed so you can play with them afterwards.

Also, use spot metering on the moon itself so it's not overexposed.
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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Rune Johnsson  Pro User  says:

What SomethingForKate said. However, I doubt normal autobracketing can cover the colossal contrast range between the moon and the dark sky.
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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sKwIzA says:

ill try this... thanks for the help:)
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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Rune Johnsson  Pro User  says:

Remember to set the white balance to daylight to get the right colours of the moon.
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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David Arran Photography  Pro User  says:

Try googling the moony 11 rule...
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

PBourgeois1960 [deleted] says:

Since the moon is reflected sunlight...try using shutter speeds around 1/125 -1/250 and the largest aperture you have on your lens.
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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peteer01  Pro User  says:

Take all the hearts...and the queen of spades.

(Sorry, couldn't resist. :-P)
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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C J Wood says:

If you to meter for the moon then switch to spot metering and either:

1.Put the moon on your focus point and shoot, or
2. Hold the exposure lock button whilst the moon is over your focus point before re-framing and shooting.
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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Dan Hershman  Pro User  says:

the moon is in bright sunlight-- therefore you should start a f/11 1/125th second at ISO 100 in manual mode. Then adjust up or down from there.
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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avi8tor4fn  Pro User  says:

What Dphershman said. Even then, you will experience nothing but frustration because the moon (really the Earth) is moving quite fast. You would need to invest in a tripod that follows the moon, or shoot at really fast shutter speeds which would not work.

With the 18-135 lens you will not get good results because you will have to crop a great deal to show the moon at any decent size. I only get very marginal result with my 55-200VR zoom, VR turned off.

Also, be sure to use mirror delay, and use the timer or remote. Look at some of the moon shots or lunar eclipse pics here.
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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star7729 / alisonG  Pro User  says:

Shoot in manual mode. Using spot metering, focus on the moon itself. Start with an ISO of 400, aperture around f5.6, and fairly high shutter, around 1/250 (no need for tripod, though one makes it easier to focus and meter on the moon). Since it is reflecting sunlight, set your white balance for daylight, with overexposure of -2....this will give you a yellow moon (or try a fluorescent WB setting to get a white-blue moon). Even with a decent zoom, you'll still get a small picture:

Full Moon

However, when you zoom and crop, you should get what you're looking for:

Full Moon
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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ppumpuang says:

Hows this?
Moon

See the description for lens and specs....

-Pumi
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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The Ewan  Pro User  says:

avi8tor4fn Not sure what you mean about needing a tracking mount; you'd only need that if you were going for a really long exposure, and you don't need that for the moon since it's actually rather bright.

The real problem here is going to be the focal length; this was my attempt:
Moon @ 135
and that's a 100% crop from a D80 with an 18-135mm, at 135mm, so that's as large as you're going to get it. That said, there are other problems with that shot, so you should be able to beat it even using the same kit.

I wouldn't let us put you off though; give it a shot and show us the results.
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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Zhetta  Pro User  says:

Not bad moon shots :o) Gotta love what the D80 does for capture quality :o)
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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nssf04 says:

I wish that this thread existed before I took this shot:

First moon shot

I took a few moon shots on a whim coming home for the evening. It never occurred to me to think about the moon's light source. Heh. I had only a midrange zoom, too (Sigma 28-70mm f/2.8-4). I kind of like the quirky way this turned out, though.

Thanks to everyone for all the tips and suggestions.
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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aldewitt_2000  Pro User  says:

When I shoot the moon I usually start by unbuckling my pants, turning to the window..... ah well, you guys can figure it out from there...
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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Ash Taylor says:

you dont need to up your ISO. i took this at 100 as you can see from my exif. I did use a 300mm lense with VR but the rest of the info you can see for yourself. This was a hand held shot so there is very slight blur.
moon 12/05/08
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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chimphappyhour  Pro User  says:

Dang, I shoot the moon almost out of sheer boredom. It's pretty
easy..... if you have the right gear:

#1- Tripod-the sturdier the better.

#2- Remote release-this keeps me out of contact with the tripod and camera, just in case.

#3- Lens- I use the 70-300VR. I zoom it out to 300 then back it up just a bit to about 270mm. This lens can be a bit soft at the full 300, better to pull back a tad and save a little extra detail. Note that even at 300, you will be cropping A LOT of frame away.

#4- Camera settings- I use aperture priority and set the aperture to f8 (again, the 70-300VR starts to sharpen up here). I use spot meter and set it squarely on the moon. Sometimes a slight bump of the e.c. is needed. WB is left on daylight and tweaked in post. Exposure delay is something else I activate just in case. That's the stuff I do if I'm shooting at night. To get other objects in, I shoot anywhere from dawn to dusk. Sometimes I'll bracket three shots at 2ev and do an exposure blend in gimp.

#5- Most important is the post process. A double pass of subtle high pass sharpening goes a long way!

Heads up!- The moon is a moving object so make sure you keep the shutter speed up to something reasonable. During the lunar eclipse, my shutter speeds dropped low enough that some movement blur started to show up. (Hint-if you are just shooting the moon, there is no reason to use tiny apertures like f22.)

Here's my moon set, all exif should show: www.flickr.com/photos/chimphappyhour/sets/72157604235125003/
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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sKwIzA says:

thanks for all the help guys... i finally did a decent shot of the moon. its not great but its a start:) heres the first one i took before i made this post...

Moony 1

and this is the second one after ive read your suggestions...

Moon 2

what dya think?
Originally posted 48 months ago. (permalink)
sKwIzA edited this topic 48 months ago.

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chimphappyhour  Pro User  says:

Hmm, I'm not sure why you shot it at f22 and ISO 1600. The distance of the moon means you don't need a huge DOF, you just need to sit in your lens's sweet spot. (Probably somewhere around f8 or f11.) Shooting f22 will introduce diffraction. ISO 1600 also introduces a penalty to sharpness as the D80 does have some automatic high ISO noise reduction that we have no control over. Overall, the shot is a huge improvement but you could definitely pick-up an extra bit by cutting down your ISO to 200, or even better 100, and your aperture into the sharp range.
Posted 48 months ago. (permalink)

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