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A soft reset is a good way to start the day. Push those two green buttons to get most of the things that show up on the top LCD screen back to defaults.
Posted 19 months ago.
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I don't know if this is a tip or not, but I noticed it. If you turn on Long Exp. Noise Reduction, you will only get 1.9 FPS in continuous drive. So if you think you are getting less than 3 FPS, you may want to check this setting.
Jon
Posted 19 months ago.
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This is something I picked up from a book and it isn't specific to the D80. It will be obvious to many here but maybe some newbies will find it usefull like I do.
Sometimes you're walking around with the camera and see something that would make a fantastic picture, you stop, start adjusting you're settings and by the time you're done it's to late.
By setting your camera to P mode (automatic aperture and shutter speed) combined with auto ISO with minimum shutter speed you'll always be able to respond quickly when you're strolling around with the camera. A shot with automatic settings is always better then no shot at all.
Originally posted 19 months ago.
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secretsamba edited this topic 19 months ago.
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- Use "Exp. Delay Mode" (number 31 in the CSM Setup Menu) if you want to avoid additional camera shake due to the mirror lock-up. Don't forget to turn it off though afterwards.
- Zoom into a photo in the Photo Review and use the Command Dial to skip to the next photo. The zoom will stay put. Nice to compare two or more similiar photos at a higher zoom rate directly.
- I accidently left my D80 on for a whole day. Battery was still full the next day so I guess it doesn't help to turn it off to save battery during exposures.
Posted 19 months ago.
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turn down the tone compensation in high contrast scenes when using matrix metering and use AE/L as the setting on the AE/L AF/L button.
not so much a D80 trick but something i came across that's helped me out a great deal. when shooting indoors with a flash use manual mode,
matrix metering
ISO 400
aperture 5.6
shutter 1/80
works well for built in flash and speedlights.
Posted 19 months ago.
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great tip brett in japan about flash use.
here's my 2 cents: i've found D80 metering to be a little bit on the side of overexposure - as many have already noticed this - so i always use exposure compensation -0.3 on not so contrasty scenes and even more on contrasty ones.
i've also found out that i'm more comfortable on centerweight metering than matrix one. i just had to turn on option CSM 19 to be able to meter exposure first and recompose after.
Originally posted 19 months ago.
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pedro prats edited this topic 19 months ago.
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Absolutely wonderful tips, tricks and insights so far, thank you all.
Please, by all means, keep them coming! There are so many facets to this marvelously complex piece of machinery that aren't well covered (and sometimes not even discussed at all) in the manual. Sharing these little gems is a fantastic way to ensure that D80 users don't have to "reinvent the wheel" every time they're confronted with a new problem or challenge.
Posted 19 months ago.
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I go into the Optimize Image menu, and turn my in-camera sharpening completely off. You have much better control in Photoshop. But, I do boost my Saturation to + and my Color Mode to IIIa (sRGB), which tends to give brighter colors. I used to do this same thing with my D70 as well, although I'm finding that the D80 does an amazing job at saturating colors, and in some cases, I have actually had to DESATURATE pictures.
Posted 19 months ago.
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what a great thread....it's nice not to hear so much about post production techniques....back with my tip later....need to think of one! LOL.
Thanks Bob.
Posted 19 months ago.
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Absolutely great idea to share tips. Thanks Bob!
What I am about to mention may not be a 'D80 only' feature, but D80 is the first camera that I found some success.
' Autofocus' is something we all might default to, most of the time., but it may be interesting to try 'manual' focus for certain scenarios.
Though the picture quality is decided mostly by the lens, I still found that my D80 (handheld) captured some nice high-shutter speed shots for me which were composed with 'manual' focus.
Posted 19 months ago.
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Great tips from everyone, thank you all so much. Now I'm not going to offer a "tip" per se, but I'd like to give a quick plug to the in-camera features that are included in the Retouch Menu. Features that I doubt that many D80 users have tried.
Sure, it's not Photoshop (or even close), but there are some pretty cool features available on the retouch menu that are worth playing around with. I especially like the Crop, D-lighting and B&W options.
Originally posted 19 months ago.
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SoCalBob edited this topic 19 months ago.
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Great thread, ....Great Camera!
Not sure if this would be classified as a tip or more of a questions, but here goes.
What do people use the function button for? I know the default is ISO and it is the only easy way to see the ISO in the viewfinder. However I did not find it that big of a deal to look at it in the LCD.
I have been using the function button to quickly change AF-mode and find that it seems to work pretty good. What do you use the function button for?
Posted 19 months ago.
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Hi Dan - looks like this might be worth a thread of it's own!
I set the function button to turn on spot metering - it saves a lot of time spent going through menus to be able to take a quick spot reading with the camera to my eye.
Posted 19 months ago.
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Good day Photopath
It certainlyIt certainly can have many functions, and will probably get as many opinions as well. With the spot metering I use the “metering button just behind and right of the shutter. Pressing that and adjusting the main command dial seem to work good for me. However just tried the spot and you are right very quick! Will have to keep that in mind
I put the AF-mode on the function because I don’t like having to go to the menus. :)
Posted 19 months ago.
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Sorry I ment behind left of the shutter.
I do like the quick spot metering ideal .. Hmmm
Posted 19 months ago.
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Check this out - related to the exposure delay mode and flash operation:
www.nikonians.org/dcforum/DCForumID236/1206.html
Aside from this, I too find the default "Normal" contrast a little high. Sharpening to +1 or +2 is nice on first sight but on more careful inspection creates sharpening haols, so I prefer to leave the sharpness at Normal and sharpen in postprocessing.
As with other cameras, I usually focus with the AF-ON on the EL/FL button in AF-C or AF-S mode.
Of course, the MyMenu items contain only the most used functions and that makes access to them fast.
Keep LCD on -2 brightness as it seem that is more close to the actual scene's brightness. Of course, use highlights blinking or histogram to be sure of exposure as the LCD is not reliable and is influenced by ambient light.
Do not use matrix metering outdoors as it is next to useless. Center-weight does better and can be used to select exposure point better.
Get a fast SD card. 40x does not cut-it for fast shooting.
Put LCD screen protectors (clear type, for PDAs) on the top LCD and on the main LCD cover. The screens will get scratched without them...
Posted 19 months ago.
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A great tool D80 is...
Here is a trick to create dreamlike pictures using multiple exposures. I refer to the manual for the tweaking part of this tip. (Shooting Menu: Multiple exposure)
Use a tripod and remote control, turn off AF.
Find some nice flowers, web, dew to shoot.
For the first shot, focus on a flower (just an example) in front of the picture, for the next shot, focus on another flower. Repeat this for the third exposure.
No need to say that you have to focus very carefully.
Of course, the effect varies according to what f-stop you use.
A macro lens or a tele-zoom will give best results I think.
Posted 19 months ago.
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I forgot something:
By using this trick, the first flower has been in focus and out of focus (twice). The same is the case for the other two objects of your choosing that were in focus.
Here is a sample:
home.c2i.net/gunnar-bye/multiple_exposure.htm
Posted 19 months ago.
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Thank you so much Jon Lawrence, what a fantasic and yet simple thing. I wondered what happened to my 3 fps!!!
Posted 19 months ago.
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Great thread indeed. Surely we can keep this running for a while...
One I only discovered the other day was the AE lock HOLD from the custom settings menu. Unless I'm mistaken this allows you to lock exposure the refocus and compose without having to hold the AE/AF lock button down. It's good for spot metering - expose for one point, focus on another. It stays locked for successive shots (useful for similar exposures) but is unlocked with one more button press.
Posted 19 months ago.
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great discussion here.....i love using the built in filters and mono and use them during shots the dof button is also handy before taking a photograph.
keep this thread going is great ...watching with interest
Posted 19 months ago.
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Concerning the camera "Retouch" function.
If you want to crop a image with the "Trim" function and also have it in "Black and White" at the same time make sure to do the "Black and White" inside the Retouch Menu first then "Trim" of the Black and White image. The other way around won't work.
Posted 19 months ago.
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Also useful, but few people know it:
www.nikondigitutor.com/eng/d80/index.shtml
Posted 19 months ago.
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i recently discovered the wonders of the creative lighting system and using my sb-600 as a remote off camera flash
Posted 19 months ago.
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wjecklund237 [deleted] says:
Thanks Mr. Tang. That's a great site. I just watched a few of the tutorial videos, and they're excellent. I'll be coming back to it often.
Posted 19 months ago.
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I find that turning down the saturation a little is better for more natural skin tones.
Also, I agree with Binary, the SB600/D80 combo rocks!
Another cool trick is that when you turn up the HIGH ISO NR, it gives a very soft effect. Nice for skin tones and portraits. Very flattering. Also keeps the noise at a minimum in softer lighting situations.
Here is an example from my photostream...
www.flickr.com/photos/donavanfreberg/334890876/
Great thread!
Originally posted 19 months ago.
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Donavan edited this topic 19 months ago.
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Use use an Expodisc with my D80 set to WB preset and AE Lock/Hold. I knew about the Expodisc for great WB but was not aware of the Incident light reading as well, Nice thread Bob
Posted 19 months ago.
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Not really a D80 trick, or a technical trick, or anything else for that matter...
But if you have a tripod, and zoom while exposing, the effect's pretty fun...
I just heard of that the day I got my D80, so I thought it was pretty cool...
Posted 19 months ago.
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Love the zoom while exposing effect, here's mine...
www.flickr.com/photos/donavanfreberg/332526284/
Posted 19 months ago.
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I like this one, it really helped me in the beginning: custom settings for the D80: www.nikonians.org/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=read_cou...
Posted 18 months ago.
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A bit old topic, but here are my tips -- as found from various websites and so on (I'm a noob):
1. The powerstrap (or something like that). Instead of having the strap around your neck, twist it around your right elbow. Adjust strap to suit naturally. Apparently this is going to make you hold your camera more steady when shooting handheld. Feel free to correct me, I have NO idea if this really works ;-)
2. When you know you will be shooting in less light, but not utter darkness, set your camera to shoot in continous mode. If the first shot suffers from camera shake, chances are that one of the next one in the series will be better. It might even catch a better moment.
3. Autofocus may not work good enough in less light. Switch to manual focus, and shoot several shots with small adjustments on the focusring.
4. For landscapes, use Aperture priority or Manual mode only and use a tripod. Stop down to the setting you'd like, and shoot several shots using different shutterspeeds. Turn off VR if you have it. When you get home you can use a technique called "digital blending" to simulate an ND split/grad filter. Or go for the HDR if that is your thing.
5. After each shot while evaluating your shot, always reconsider your framing and composition.
6. I agree on the tip resetting your camera after each day. But I will add this: Memorize the defaults you prefer if they don't concur with the camera's default after a twobutton reset. And set them. Make this a daily routine.
7. Similar to the above. Preset the camera to suit your needs depending on what you are going to shoot. If you're expecting people, preset the camera for typical portait settings; color mode, saturation and so on. If going on location for landscape photography, preset the camera to make the best pictures for this situation. Macro work? Make sure the autofocus is set to single and so on. I wish the D80 had banks similar to those of the D200 to store all this though.
8. Working with flash? Why not program the func button to FV lock and do the preflash? When the fly lands on your pretty flower, it will still be sitting instead of escaping from that nasty preflash :) Similar with eyes and blinking people (see Ken Rockwells website for nice examples, hehe).
9. Aimed at the newbie. The flash icon in the viewfinder actually mean something. Most people, including myself, tend to ignore it when shooting in plenty of light. Push the flash button and get that usually needed fill light working.
10. A little probably obvious to most, memorizer: The aperture disc (?) is more forward (at lens), and the shutter mechanism is located all the way back in the camera where the sensor sits. Hence, the forward dial (subcommand dial) controls aperture, and the rear dial (main command dial) controls shutterspeed. Pretty logical, isn't it?
Maybe a bit out of bounds for the original post, but I had some spare time.
Posted 18 months ago.
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John Lawrence ...You saved my life :) thanks
Posted 4 months ago.
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ps everyone else thanks for helpfull tips :)
Posted 4 months ago.
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I turn the image auto preview off, this makes changing stops or shutter speed so much faster in action situations. The simple push of the play button will give you your image preview if you need it.
Posted 4 months ago.
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Another thing to turns off is the function that allows you to take shots when there is no memory card in the slot (the rear LCD displays the shot you just took (like normal right?), but its erased from the interanl D80 buffer as soon as you take the next shot). I really dont know why this function exists - its an accident waiting to happen!
The other day I had taken the card out to upload some photos into my laptop and forgot to replace it. I would like to think that I would have noticed the "--E--" symbol that shows on the LCD soon enough and put the card back in. Unfortunately, I wasnt the next person to use the camera - a lent it to Cath, so that she could take some macro fish shots to enter the current D80 challenge.
She took oooh, about 40 shots before handing the camera back for me to take a look at her work...
Oops, I wasn't very popular!
Originally posted 4 months ago.
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DrNickBurton edited this topic 4 months ago.
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Sure you can leave your camera turned on and it'll last days without going flat, just don't leave it plugged into the computer!
Don't leave your memory card plugged into the computer either for that matter!
Posted 4 months ago.
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This tip is a general tip or word of advice.
Dont be afraid of changing iso from 100!!!! a little noise never hurt anybody!! a shot with noise is better than no shot at all.
also, everyone should be 100% able to shoot full manual, and only use the other A or P when necessary for shooting conditions. It really is a helpful practice, you learn the mechanics.
Posted 4 months ago.
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The FUNC Button is one on the front of the D80, between the lens mount and the shutter button.
I set it to: FV Lock
A tutorial said : "Press it once to fire a pre-flash to measure and lock the flash exposure. You'll see a pip of flash,and then a lighting bolt + L lit on the lower left of the viewfinder to let u know the lock is set and active. Now for every photo you take, the flash doesn't fire before the photo is taken.
This prevents people and pets from blinking, which are almost do in the regular flash mode. "
Posted 4 months ago.
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Here is a question, If i set the D80 to B&W mode in the custom menu, does that only apply to the JPG? I am pretty sure the raw remains as the camera saw it with no adjustments, for that matter, all the saturation and contrast settings ONLY apply to the JPG file, not the raw?
Edited for laptop dyslexia.
Originally posted 4 months ago.
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TheNakedPhotographer® edited this topic 4 months ago.
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TheNakedPhotographer: Well, yes and no. You *do* get all the colour information in the RAW file - in fact, I usually have the D80 in "B&W" mode and shoot "RAW+FINE" to get a B&W and colour version of the same photo - I really like the B&W JPEGs the D80 makes.
On the other hand,, there seems to be some extra information in the .NEF file that can tell postprocessing software that "this photo was taken in B&W mode", as at least Irfanview (with the RAW plugin) shows a black and white photo when it's asked to open a .NEF that has been taken with the camera in B&W mode. Lightroom, on the other hand, seems to ignore that extra info and shows the colour version.
Posted 4 months ago.
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Hey eystein.aarseth, I was just wondering since you mentioned you shoot RAW+FINE in B&W.. How do you separate the files when you upload them because I know it's a hassle seeing the .NEF then .JPEG of the the same image right next to each other. Thanks!
Posted 4 months ago.
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Another D80/SB600 or SB800 tip.
If using the SB flash guns, remember that they don't need to be on camera and generally you'll get more interesting results with them off-camera.
How? Easy. Set the on-camera flash to commander mode and the SB to auto on the correct channel (default is 3 on both); pop up the on-camera flash to allow it to trigger the SB and you're good to go.
Position the flash wherever you think the light should come from and just play!
Here's a model shot in total darkness with the SB held above and behind me with a cardboard snoot on it to restrict the light. Model was asked to look straight at flash:
You can probably do better - give it a go...
Oh - some hints:
1) Sensor on SB must not be covered - watch your fingers!
2) If you're shooting into very non-reflective surfaces not enough IR may bounce to to trigger the SB. Try putting something reflective in front of the on-camera flash to bounce it back. I find my hand works well!
3) Using the flash in place of a light source can be effective; stick in the unit in a light shade for example.
4) Avoid red-eye and reflection off glasses by remembering to angle the light and camera so that the flash doesn't reflect back into the lens. Try some test shots on someone with glasses to see what I mean - having the flash off-camera makes it ridiculously easy.
Posted 4 months ago.
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I make a folder on the computer for each photoshoot. Then I make another folder inside the that, called "RAW".
Then I copy all the files from the camera to the photoshoot folder,
order the files by type, select the .NEF files and cut & paste them into the RAW folder. It only takes a few seconds, and works for me.
Well, I should clean up some of the sillier folders, named things like "testcrap", "misc photos", "miscphotos", "testphoto 2" (and so on, until "testphoto 10") one of these years. Fortunately most of the photo folders have better names than that. :-)
Posted 4 months ago.
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Two things I learned using the D80:
1. For quick opportunity shots (kids birthday...): Use Aperture mode and ISO Auto, limit slowest exposure time to 1/60. As long as A mode can get a good time you're all set (anyway). Once you hit the lower limit, Auto ISO kicks in and keeps you out of trouble, that is keeps the time from getting too long. Put the function button to ISO display so you can see the actual ISO value while framing the shot. Thank God for Auto ISO!!!
2. When using higher ISO values (>800), I recommend to overexpose by 1/2 stop (and using RAW mode). That is against conventional wisdom, BUT: You can correct the overexposure in CaptureNX easily, rescuing the highlights, and you'll get MUCH lower noise. Apparently the exposure correction on the RAW data pushes much of the color noise below the lowest bit threshold.
Posted 4 months ago.
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e_cathedra - you might be interested in the Nikon CLS Flickr Group.
Or try a search for the Flickr tag "extremecls".
The Nikon wireless system does a lot better than most people will give it credit.
Posted 4 months ago.
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This is great thread. Thanks everyone.
Posted 4 months ago.
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If you get into trouble hit the two green dot reset buttons ,thenist back to basic settings ,helped me !
I leave lens cap off and unit turned on.
Use a wrist strap all the time for security and safety .
Thanks for the tips and tricks .
G`day SoCalBob ,good to see your still here after all the unnecessary crap thats been going on in here .
Originally posted 4 months ago.
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scoti49 edited this topic 3 months ago.
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It is very interesting and is good for person like me who don't have a light meter.. but can use it believing whatever is explained is true and match D80 firmware/software algorithm. Millions of photographer are using it, so I am sure it works.
www.photokaboom
Posted 4 months ago.
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We need more tips, I shall resurrect thee.
Here's mine, I know this has already been mentioned but always always check your ISO. If your out taking pictures you'll fine yourself in new places; indoors, outdoors, underwater.. but every place may need a different ISO value. Cheers!
Posted 3 months ago.
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Absolutely true Andrew...thanks to all you people for sharing your tips...im a recently owner of this great piece of technology so i don't have any tip to share yet. I promisei'll do soon
take care people
Posted 3 months ago.
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in case of high contrast situation... i find using combination of manual mode and spot metering very comfortable to use...
after setting the ISO and aperture I adjust the shutter almost in the middle of the max and min values. (which I judge using the spot meter) ..
I still dont know whether it works perfectly but definitely gives better results than those horrible overexposed portion of images :)
Posted 3 months ago.
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Eliminating Blurry Photos Due to Camera Shake
Here's something that's helped me take sharper photos, if a tripod or VR lens isn't available:
Make sure the shutter speed is at least "one over twice the focal length." For example, at 50mm, your shutter speed should be at least 1/(2 x 50) or 1/100 sec.
You may need to adjust this rule of thumb for very steady or shakey hands.
Posted 3 months ago.
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