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It is surprising how much detail can be recorded. Have a read of this article from Luminous Landscapes:
www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml
It gives a good technical explanation of what you're seeing, and why - if you're shooting RAW - you should be looking to push the exposure as far to the right as you can to record as much as you can.
Posted 11 months ago.
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Another good article read about exposing to the right
www.pixelatedimage.com/blog/2009/08/exposure-and-metering/
Posted 11 months ago.
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Yes I have read about expose to the right which I usually do but I have read counter arguments against more recently. The problem with the histogram is it based on jpgs and the colours are Red Green and Blue, so if red is blown then it may not show on the histogram, just be careful you do not blow the highlights.
Posted 11 months ago.
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That's what highlight recovery is for. Channel clipping. Whether on purpose or accidental.
Posted 11 months ago.
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HR will only work up to a certain point. Exposure to the right is OK in even lighting or flat lighting but does not work in contrasty situations.
Posted 11 months ago.
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"so if red is blown then it may not show on the histogram"
Umm... Didn't I just say HR is for channel clipping? I mean there are several software companies developing HR AND explaining how it works. Through channel clipping which is what you are describing above.
Posted 11 months ago.
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@Hbie: On my T2i/550D and in Photoshop as well (I have CS/8), I have the option to view an RGB histogram that shows the individual colors.
Also, technically, JPEG uses the YCbCr color space which uses red and blue axis components and a luminance channel.
Posted 11 months ago.
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You can also oft get away with a blown channel without too much trouble provided that the overall luminosity is not blown as well. I encounter it a fair bit with macro work on yellow based subjects which oft have the reds blow out very easily - a bit of double processing to try and restore the yellows generally works very well.
Posted 11 months ago.
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Have you heard about the UniWB technique? Works like a charm. However, I didn't find many sources at the internet:
www.malch.com/nikon/UniWB.html
Cheers!
Posted 11 months ago.
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... and this is how we learn! Very cool.
Posted 11 months ago.
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Just a quick note, off topic...
Ever tried shooting a panorama using vertical photos instead of horizontal ones? You will need more photos to go across the scene, but you will end up with more data to stitch them together with and it won't be so long and skinny.
Also, if you're shooting in RAW, and you have a lot of dark shadows (foreground) in combination with lots of highlights (sky), you can add some fill light (using adobe camera RAW or lightroom, etc) and recover some of that lost detail in the foreground while still keeping the sky from going completely white.
This technique is how I do most of my panoramas.
Posted 11 months ago.
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Yes but in Raw you can do a conversion for the sky and then one for the ground and combined them.
Read that UniWB article and he agrees tha the jpg histogram is not very accurate, seems to be for Nikon cameras?
Posted 11 months ago.
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^^ I almost always use portrait orientation for pano's
Posted 11 months ago.
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Canon's histogram is not very accurate too. I think UniWB works for any camera brand.
Posted 11 months ago.
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Klassen Images
Yes, most of my panoramas are done this way.
Note: I don't make panoramas *very* often, but it just makes sense to me to have more information to begin with. :-)
Posted 11 months ago.
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UniWB just sounds too complicated for me to bother with. Shoot long enough in RAW and you will get used to knowing when you are clipping the highlights, and how much you can push it in post. Combine with editing techniques such as HDR if you want to squeeze out more data.
Posted 11 months ago.
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you have a point. I almost never use UniWB, actually, but I like to use it when I have plenty of time to take a picture, in contrasty situations. Anyway, I think it is important to know such a tecnique.
Cheers
Posted 11 months ago.
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This is why I'm a big fan of the shadow/highlight recovery feature in photoshop. This photo was very foggy and through a crappy airplane window.
Posted 11 months ago.
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The problem with the histogram is it based on jpgs and the colours are Red Green and Blue, so if red is blown then it may not show on the histogram, just be careful you do not blow the highlights.
The in-camera histogram can be set to RGB or brightness. It's in the menu. It does depend on the in-camera JPG, but that is affected on the in-camera settings. I set my default to the Neutal picture style to get the best indication of blown highlights (for raw images).
Originally posted 11 months ago.
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Antoine_K edited this topic 11 months ago.
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