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"Did you know?" - Tips, tricks and helpful ideas about your DSLR (share yours)
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I've been using DSLR's for a couple years now, learning more and more neat little tricks all the time. I sometimes have other photographers come up to me to ask "what's that for?" when I'm out taking pictures. I'm sure everyone in this group has a different level of experience and thought it would be good to share the knowledge with everybody else. I didn't see any similar topics, so I figured I would start one.
To start off with a few..
1) External Flash: Built in reflector card

If you use a Canon flash, you might have noticed the white card that comes out when pulling out the wide angle diffuser panel (or maybe you've never pulled it out, or noticed there was a wide angle diffuser panel). Since finding out about the reflector card, I've learned to use it all the time. I found the best angle to be one similar to my picture above - the reflector card works great even in places where you can't bounce the flash off a ceiling, but don't want to use direct-flash on your subject. I usually set the exposure to +1 on the flash when using the reflector card as there is some light loss (since the flash is pointed at an angle and not directly at the subject).
2) Cap Keepers

Cap Keepers are an inexpensive product put out by "Sima" - usually selling for $1.50 - $2.00 a piece, they consist of an elastic band with a string and adhesive "dot" - you put the elastic band around your lens, stick the adhesive dot to your lenscap and never have to worry about losing it again. I've attached these capkeepers to all of my lenses and have never had a problem. The cap simply hangs when not on your camera, and since it's attached to a string you'll always know where it's at (no more stuffing it in your bag or pocket, then digging for it afterwards).
3) Canon Handstrap

A very helpful addition to the neckstrap, I've found it makes holding the camera still much easier and gives you a better grip with larger lenses or when carrying around a camera all day. These go on same connector that your neckstrap goes on (both are used at the same time). The downside (if you consider it to be one) is that you need a Battery Grip (which you should have anyways) attached to use the handstrap. Canon E1
4) Battery Grip

As mentioned above, I think everyone should have a battery grip attached to their camera. When I first heard of the battery grip, I figured "well that's unnecessary - I'll just switch batteries when one runs out." But the battery grip not only allows you to use 2 batteries at once, it adds a shutter release and focus controls to the bottom of the camera - this means that when you switch to portrait mode, your camera will still have a shutter button at the "top" of the camera (and not the left side). This makes portrait shots much easier and comfortable. Another benefit is that it "evens out" the camera by adding a little bit more weight to it.. very helpful with lighter cameras like the xxxD series or when using larger lenses.
5) RAW file format

RAW takes up more space than JPEG, and also requires you to process the images yourself (opposed to the camera doing it for you). So why would you want it?
RAW files contain data that can be modified after the fact, and gives you much more control of how you want the final image to turn out (whether its raising exposure, changing the white balance, or adjusting saturation/sharpness without degrading the image (as with a JPEG).
In fact, the image above was taken with Auto White Balance using RAW.. but the white balance was off. With a single click I was able to correct the colors using the included Canon software:

6) Securing your camera bag

If you look through my photostream, almost every image was taken in what was a large, crowded area. Lots of conventions, theme parks, etc..
The last thing you'd want is for your equipment to just go missing (not necessarily due to theft, but also from the backpack opening unintentionally and spilling over the floor). I've heard of the Canon backpacks doing this.. and that's exactly what I own. I found a quick solution that gives you peace of mind - locks. You can get a 4 pack of master locks (with keys) for under $10 - slip the lock through the loops on the metal zipper and never worry about it. The extra work of unlocking is very minimal and worth the effort.
7) Lens hoods are reversible

Lens hoods can be bulky and hard to store if you're not doing it right. I've seen people keeping the hoods in separate compartments of bags (or leaving them behind). One thing that some people don't know is that these are reversible:
By putting the lens hood on the opposite way (and screwing it in like you would normally), it will stay in place and take up very little extra space.
8) Rosco Gel Sampler Packs

Rosco sells sheets of gels for lights - these can be very useful, but also expensive (since most people don't need an entire sheet of a specific color). Fortunately, Rosco puts out sampler packs (a book containing each color, in a small cut-down sized. These are available at theater and lighting stores, or available online at retailers like B&H for $0.01 per pack. The great thing is that these fit over Canon flashes (use gaffers tape, velcro or rubber bands to hold in place). This means you get an entire collection of usable "colors" for just about nothing. Most people who read strobist already know about these, but my little addition is the ring (seen on the left) - you can get a 12 pack of "book rings" (metal rings that easily snap apart or back together) for $1.00 - remove the gels from the spiked pin (right side of image) that normally holds these together, and put it onto the book ring. This lets you easily remove and replace the different gels without adding extra bulk (some people will put together books of gels to take with them).
Originally posted at 9:21AM, 4 February 2009 PDT
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scubapup (a group admin) edited this topic 40 months ago.
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Nice! I work with Rosco gels everyday; I never thought to use them on a Speedlite. . .
The only other thing I can think of right now is to make sure to get a bag that your lenses will fit in with the lens hoods on (backwards of course). I learned this one the hard way. . .
Posted 40 months ago.
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Good stuff!
I'm going to order the gels
www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?ci=0&shs=Ros...
I have the lens cap gadget on one lens does it work when reversing the lens cap as the string would be in the way. Also the elastic tends to stretch out after awhile and is a problem.
I also like the diffuser on the flash as it gives a softer effect.
I have the Camdapter strap and love it. It helps to have a more secure hold on the camera and has saved me from dropping it a couple of times.
www.camdapter.com/
Posted 40 months ago.
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I think that reflector card must only be on the newer or high end Speedlites - just checked my 420 EX and it doesn't have it.
Posted 40 months ago.
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There is no reflector card on the 400 series flashes, new or old.
Originally posted 40 months ago.
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inate edited this topic 40 months ago.
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In my experience people who work out that thing with the hood end up just leaving it that way ;) Lazy buggers...
Posted 40 months ago.
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Yes Steve, I routinely see people using their 70-200mm f/2.8 lenses with reversed hoods. What's the point? might as well leave it at home.
The only two questions I have for Mike are these:
1. A cap keeper doesn't seem to play well with a reversed hood, or am I missing something?
2. While many in this group like and use battery grips, some of us find them too bulky and like our cameras just fine without them. A battery grip isn't a must, it's an option.
Thanks for the great post Mike, many will find this quite useful.
Posted 40 months ago.
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When I bought my first DSLR a few years ago Compact Flash cards were still very expensive and I only had two 512 MB cards for a trip away from home.
I shot RAW & JPEG images and when one of the cards got full up id go to a chemist and have the memory card burnt to CD to download to my PC later.
Its not so much of a problem these days as CF cards are cheaper though you never know when it might come in handy.
Posted 40 months ago.
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Hate cap keepers. To each his own. :-)
Didn't know you could have a wrist strap & a neck strap...hmm. Bit like wearing a belt & suspenders, but I think I like!
Here's a tip--instead of using the white card when photographing people, point the flash straight up and lay a flat palm along the back of your flash so that your fingers stick up where the white card would be. This acts the same way as the bounce card, except your hand just happens to be a perfect skin tone.
Posted 40 months ago.
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Lick'n'stick cigarette papers make a handy quick popup flash diffuser.
Business cards make a handy popup flash bounce card.
Originally posted 40 months ago.
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SteveFE edited this topic 40 months ago.
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Some good advice there - a few things I would add (though I have no fancy photos to show)
RAW - though RAW has many advantages, as the original article says, it does require that you process all your images - that means you have to know some basic points with editing to get the full effect of using RAW - especaily sharpening since RAW shots are always softer than JPEGs (because a JPEG has already been sharpened by the camera). JPEG+RAW of JPEG fine are the 2 settings I would save under when starting out. Move to RAW once you are happy with editing can get work your way round it.
Diffusers - flash really needs a diffuser and there are some good options out on the market - stofen omibounce and lumiquest softbox to name two - however if you don't have one you can use some toiletpaper instead. Fold it over a few times to make a pad and then hold this infront of the flash *you can use an elastic band to hold it there*. That will give you some decent diffusion - though my experiences are that its not as good as some of the proper diffusion methods (its also not waterproof ;))
Lens Caps and Pockets - if your not using a Cap Keeper as shown above, then your cap probably lives in your pocket when your out shooting. However as its sitting in the pocket its gathering up dust from it - dust that then gets knocked back onto the front of your lens when you put the cap back on. To save from this put the cap inside a holder so that it remains dust free.
Sunny Days - if your shooting in the height of a bright sunny day there is a good chance that your going to get highlights overexposing in your shots - one way to solve this is with a good polarizer (don't go for cheap brand options as it will affect your image quality). However another method is to use exposure compensation to underexpose the image, by up to one stop (or select manual settings for the same effect). That will help to minimise the overexposure in the highlights - refer to your in camera histogram display though to gague how much compensation is needed
Histogram - one of the best things about a DSLR is being able to review shots right after taking them, but the LCD is small and telling exposure on it is very hard. Most DSLRs will allow you to change the review viewing data to show the histogram of a shot - (refer to your manual for instructions). The histogram is a great way of seeing if and where over and underexposure is in a shot - to read the histogram (this is a cut down version there are better guides if you search about the net) know that if the bars are all along the lefthand side that you have areas of a shot which are underexposed (pure black) and if its all along the righthand side you have overexposed (pure white) areas of a shot. In digital these areas have no data barring either white or black so you cannot edit to restore the lost details, even in RAW. The areas which are affected by the exposure problems will generally be marked on the review image (often by flashing).
This allows you to see where there are problems in a shot and, if there are, if they are going to ruin the overall effect - and thus you have to shoot again with altered settings. Note that (in general terms) one can get away with underexposed areas better than overexposed.
Protection Filter - to UV or not to UV?
Well the answer is its really up to you whether you use a filter for lens protection or not. My advice is that if you are going to use one then get the best you can afford, a good B&W or Hoya filter will not degrade your image quality, but cheap one will. Further there are situations where you might be shooting and have material flying around (sand, mud ect) now if these hit the front of your lens they can build up and affect your image quality, meaning that you need to clean the lens - that takes time when done right and if your not in the case where you have that time a filter can be wiped quickly without fear of damaging the front element - allowing you to return to shooting quicker - in such evironments its also a good policy as it limits the amount of damage that a front element can take.
Note that UV filters are not nessessarily needed these days as digital lenses are made with UV coatings inside already - thus one can use a quality (And cheaper) clear glass filter for protection
Posted 40 months ago.
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Just discovered this the other night. If you're doing very low light long exposure shooting with a subject in foreground that you want to focus on you'll find it hard to focus or the AF doesn't work. So I slapped on my 580 EX onto my camera, set my lens to autofocus, lined up what I could see in the viewfinder then did the half press. The AF will then look for the infrared assist beams from the 580 EX and get focus lock.
I shut off the AF on the lens and turn off the flash, then use my remote (or a timer) and did my long exposure.
Worked like a charm. I thought about this since in the past I carried a high powered flashlight with me and illuminated the objects I wanted in focus. The only caveat is that the AF assist has a very limited range, but I found it seems to work fine within 20-30 feet.
Posted 40 months ago.
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6 and 8Mpx DSLRs, contrary to what the sales morons would have you believe, can produce brilliant 20x30" prints. Don't believe the Mpx hype: just go and get your best file from your old DSLR printed at a competent printshop with a wide format Epson and a good RIP. Let them worry about res and upsampling (the truth is they won't, they'll just feed the file as is to the RIP and it will come out fine).
Posted 40 months ago.
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ooh on the AF assistance (its in the 580 series of flashes, I don't know if its in the 430) but whilst it will work with AF single shot and AI focus it will not work with AF servo focus.
Posted 40 months ago.
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I agree with Richard's sentiment - great idea for a post. I hope that everyone can contribute their two bits to it...
So here are some of mine: I used to use cap keepers when I used filters to protect my lenses. Now that I use hoods for that, the cap keepers are not very easy to use any more, and now, I don't bother. Caps go in a pocket or in the bag. This becomes a 'what works for you' deal.
I also use a hand grip, though from the reviews, I ended up going with the one from Camera Armor, not Canon. Other tidbits include...
* I use a CPL for almost all of my outdoor photography. Why? I just like what it does to greenery. I've also started using a flash with the cpl. I happen to like that combination.
* I started using my tripod more. It slows me down, and makes me think more about composition. that helps me realize better shots than 'run'n'gun'.
* Along that note - no one tripod will suit all needs. At best, you will get a series of compromises. It's up to you to determine which compromises you want to make for what situation.
* No one camera bag will suit all needs. I've chosen a large backpack (a computrekker) that will also fit my 17" laptop and almost everything I normally use or could use in it, and I recently picked up a think tank changeup so I could more easily change on the fly during a shoot.
* You can't have enough CF cards. Some photographers like the bigger capacity ones, so they don't have to change cards often. Others like having lots of smaller cards, as they know that cards can and do fail, and loosing 200 shots is better than loosing 2000 shots.
* Always buy name brand cards from reputable dealers (not ebay). It's not worth saving the few bucks, and ending up with a knockoff or worse, a fake that could damage your camera.
* Setting the FEV to -1 helps when doing portraits, in terms of balancing flash to ambient lighting. I just like a less dominant primary light. The images seem to come out better balanced.
* Trial, error, and analysis helps a lot. So does asking good questions in terms of how do you make an image better.
* Shooting in RAW was one of the best things I ever did...
* I tape up all the brands of my equipment. It's not important for people to know what I'm shooting with. Only results there count.
* I don't use battery grips, but can see why people use them.
* I don't use uv filters, and can no longer understand why people use them.
* Try out as many different shooting positions as possible. I tend to be on the ground a lot to get a different shooting angle.
* I try really really hard not to be tempted by the next body. The 'next' body is usually a small step up from what I'm using, and isn't a good use of my money. Two steps? Maybe. Three steps, yes, there there will be a noticeable improvement in how the camera handles.
- I also note that a new body will not solve my photography issues, and indeed, it just creates new, more expensive ones.
* I really dislike wide angle perspective distortion. As such, I long for a medium format sensor from Canon so I can keep using the lenses that I've invested in. In lieu of that, then I'll need to get a full frame body. Sigh.
- in the meantime, I've learned a lot about stitching panoramas together, and have a LOT of respect for those that can do this well. It's much harder to do than originally thought.
Posted 40 months ago.
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re: lenscaps-I really like the "pinch from the inside" Tamron lens caps-they can be easily removed or replaced when the lens has a hood attached, unlike the Canon OEM caps. And, they are not overly expensive, and exist in pretty much the same thread sizes as Canon lenses. www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw?url=search-alias=aps&fi...
Posted 40 months ago.
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I like this kind of thread. I'll add some now, then more later.
- Carry as many CF cards as you can. It's important to keep a few to shoot with, and a few in case a card fails. It's not fun to go on vacation, try to take a picture and you realize your one and only 16 or 32GB card has failed.
- Carry plenty of batteries. Especially in cold weather. The more batteries you have, the longer you can shoot. I recommend Sterlingtek batteries. They're cheap and are as good, if not better than the Canon ones.
- Always have some kind of support device with you.....tripod, monopod, gorilla-pod, bean bag, etc. You never know when you'll run into a situation where you might need one. I usually carry a gorilla-pod with me.
- Keep your eyes on your gear at all times. Never loose sight of it...even for a second. It's a rough world out there. Sad but true. Your gear might read "Canon" to you which means "Steal Me! I'm Expensive" to a thief. Even if you tape it....it's still a camera, and it's still expensive. Watch it.
- Keep your eyes peeled for people who may be following you while you are out shooting.....especially at night or when alone. If you think somebody is following you, quietly keep an eye on them. If it continues, leave. Quickly. Make sure they don't follow you.
They could just be waiting for you to take a long look through the viewfinder. They'll come take you down and take your gear with them.
- Always let somebody know when you're going out shooting. Tell them where and when. If you're not back in a few hours or they don't get a call from you or whatever, they should alert the authorities.
All of that is sad, but true.
- More later. Homework sucks.
Posted 40 months ago.
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1) Center-pinch lens caps: I use lens hoods on most of my lenses. I picked up several inexpensive Tamron lens caps with center-pinch releases, that are much easier to remove and put back on than Canon's own caps, especially when the lens hood is in place.
2) EXIF: I've learned a lot more about photography from reading the EXIF info ("more properties") on Flickr than I have from asking people "how did you take that photo?" At least with the EXIF, I have a basic idea of what they did. And people who use proper lens tags on their photostreams have helped me out a bunch too.
3) Bounce flash: since my 420EX didn't come with the handy bounce card shown above, I had to try something different. In locations with ceilings that are white or gray (neutral colors), and that are low enough (less than 15 feet), I point the flash at the ceiling, and use +1 on the flash exposure compensation menu. The shots are well-lit, and be taken with lower ISO than most indoor photography.
4) There is no easy answer to sports photography, especially in the poorly lit high school gyms/fields. I've been asked a hundred times how to "solve" the problem: grain/noise, motion blur, too dark, etc. Each person has to decide for themselves which sacrifice to make in those situations. (For those of you shooting in pro or college situations, lucky you!)
Posted 40 months ago.
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Wicked_Bad: Yeah, they're actually a near-perfect fit (at least on the 580EXII):

Fireshot2009: Rosco has 2 different sampler packs - the one you linked to and this one: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/45189-REG/Rosco_950SBLUX01...
At $0.01 a piece, make sure to get both (I just placed an order with B&H and added 2 of each, so that I can use the same gels on both flash units (for color correction or effects).
The cap keeper has always worked fine with me - with hoods, without hoods and with reversed hoods:



A few more tips and tricks:
Lenspens!

These are very cheap (I paid about $5 for the small one, $10 for the large (blue) and $7 for the large (yellow)). They have a retractable soft brush on one end and a cleaning piece on the other - great for brushing dust (or anything else) off of lenses, and then cleaning them. Lenses look great after cleaned with one of these. I originally used Microfiber cloths but found they ended up just smudging the lenses and not really helping (I would become OCD and keep trying to clean them further). Haven't touched them since finding these. And yes, thats a Nikon branded lenspen (they're a few dollars cheaper, but the same product).
External Battery Packs (Flash)

If you have an external flash, you probably notice how long it takes to cycle (from when you press the button until the next flash is ready). Canon sells an external battery pack that plugs into the side (at least on the 580EXII). The pack holds an additional 8 AA batteries (the flash itself still holds 4 more). It not only extends the battery life before you need to switch batteries, but also speeds up the cycle times quite a bit (great when you need flash and can't wait 3-4 seconds between shots!).
Battery Cases + Numbering

I've always heard that batteries should be stored together, used together and recharged together - I don't know if it actually has any benefit, but it's always stuck with me. I've numbered all of my sets rather than mixing them all up, and put them into cases like the one above. Some hold 4 AA, some hold 8 AA - they make it very easy to transport, while keeping everything "neat". You can even use a system (like if the positive end is pointed up in the case, they're charged.. pointed down they're used)
On the subject of batteries, if you don't like to keep charging them, look into Eneloop batteries - they hold the charge for long periods of time (a year, I believe). This is great for Flash units as normal rechargable batteries will slowly drain and after a week or two, be very low (even if unused during that period of time).
This trick also applied with CF cards - I put clean ones face-up and used ones face-down to prevent any accidental reformatting while I'm out.
Gorillapod

I bought one of these over a year ago and love it. They come in various sizes (I went for the SLR-ZOOM) - great for places where you don't want to bring a tripod, or need somewhere to hold the camera where a tripod wouldn't work. I've used trees and poles with good results (long exposure night shots). The nice thing is that they can double as a flash stand to connect an external flash to places that would otherwise be difficult.
EOS Utility

Part of the bundled software that comes with the camera. This lets you tether your camera to your computer through a USB cable, and see your results instantly. You can view Live View on your PC in realtime (if the camera supports liveview), take pictures, adjust settings and have the full sized files transferred instantly. You can even link software like Adobe Lightroom to monitor EOS Utility and instantly pull up the files as soon as they're taken (so you can quickly see on a large screen if the image turned out how you wanted).
Custom Functions
EOS cameras and even the Flash Units have "custom functions" - settings that you can enable and disable, that arent found in the normal menus. On the 40D, for example, you can enable ISO 3200 (rather than the default max ISO 1600). Other helpful settings can include high ISO noise reduction and auto focus in Live View.
Noise Removers

One of the downsides of high ISO is the image noise (or grain). Using noise removers such as NoiseNinja or NeatImage (or even the include noise removal features in other software) you can cover up some of the grain/noise and "save" an image. Keep in mind that too much can create blurring, so try out different settings. The above was taken at ISO 3200 on a 40D and noise removal was applied (using Neat Image).
Auto Focus point
In the viewfinder you'll see several autofocus points - I'm guessing most will keep it on Auto (where it determines which to use, which can be one that you DONT want it to use) or the center. You can change which focusing point you want to use (so your images arent all centered) and you can even assign the buttons on the back of the camera to move the AF point (I set my XTi to use the Up/Down/Left/Right buttons to select the point, and the 40D to use the nub to select the focusing point) - setting this (I believe in the custom functions menu) will save time from having to press other buttons first (you can just keep a finger on the nub and move as needed without needed to put the camera down and go through menus.
Originally posted 40 months ago.
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scubapup (a group admin) edited this topic 40 months ago.
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I try to use ONLY 4GB CF cards. This means I don't get as many shots (Shoot RAW), but it also means that when I get home, I can backup each one to its own DVD. One CF card, one DVD. Easy as pie.
My other favourite tools are gaffer's tape and self adhesive velcro. I bring them everywhere and have been able to rig up some lovely setups with the gaffer's tape alone.
@ Boldpuppy -- There's a free program out there which I find works substantially better than Photoshop or eyeballing my stitched together photos. It's called AutoStitch (who would've guessed) and is one of the easiest to use stitchers I've come across.
www.cs.ubc.ca/~mbrown/autostitch/autostitch.html
Originally posted 40 months ago.
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R Bartsch edited this topic 40 months ago.
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Once I had a pro cameraman ask what time it was; I reminded him the $4,000.00 Canon 1D watch he was carrying also took pictures.
Posted 40 months ago.
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LOL. Press the INFO button, and it will tell you what time it is...
Posted 40 months ago.
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Haha. FAIL.
Posted 40 months ago.
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BoldPuppy, that assumes that you actually set the time correctly at some point.
Speaking of which, does anyone know how to sync two cameras to the exact same time? When my wife and I are out shooting it's nice to mix the pics in post using the sort by date/time feature. Only problem is I have yet to figure out how to set both cameras to the same second. We've even tried setting the time to the same minute and clicking OK at the same time. It always seems to be 20 or 30 seconds off which screws up the timeline a bit sometimes.
Canon 40D and 400D in case that matters.
Posted 40 months ago.
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You're right, of course - there are some who never 'fix' the time, or reset it properly after the date/time battery has been replaced. I'm aware of the timeline issue - it's a bit of a pain when there is more than one camera body following an event, and you want to get all the photos in order. I think you can use EOS utility to sync the time of the camera to the computer... has anyone tried doing that?
Posted 40 months ago.
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Ok - out of curiosity, I just did. You can sync to your computer's time clock, and then sync the second camera to the computer as well. This will get both cameras to within a second.
Posted 40 months ago.
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Thank you BP, I suspected it was in the EOS Utility but just needed to dig a little deeper in the tools.
Posted 40 months ago.
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1. If you don't have a monopod with you, you can steady a long lens like this;- take some string approx 6 ft (2m). Make a generous loop at either end. Put one loop round the camera lens about half way, the other round your foot. Stretch tight. Hey presto, handy support worth a couple of stops.
2. Pad of white paper, real estate board, anything can make a handy reflector.
3. Backup. Backup. Backup. Backup. Did I mention you should back files up?
More later ....
Posted 40 months ago.
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Make sure you change the time in your camera as you change time zones - I hate it when I forget it on international travel and then half the days photos are in one folder and half in the next.
UV filters are only useful in really bad conditions - ie sand storm, crowds (wihtout a hood) etc
Photography from 6 foot up is boring - kneel, ly downl, stand on something, anything to get a different persective than just holding the camera up to your face.
Carry lots of cards ( I have about 8 - 1gig, 2 gig and 4 gig ones) and batteries - these are the few things you can't get any more of when you are shooting something, and the few essential things apart from the actual camera.
Lens pens and cleaing cloths - carry several as the can get dirty and mirco fibre cloths are not available in every country....
Back up - every single opportunity, no matter what. If you don't and you loose or have your chip damage or your HD fail you will understand the pain.
Backpacks - I use a normal pack with a tamrac 5505 inside and a little luggage combo lock on the backpack. It looks like a normal pack, holds all my gear plus extra stuff like a tripod (JUST manages to fit inside) and is locked securely.
Posted 40 months ago.
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Interestingly, there is a free piece of bundled software that I got with my S2 called PhotoStitch that works great for stitching. Coupled with the stitch mode on the cam, it makes things pretty easy, tho it works even for images not taken in stitch mode. Thats just a guide for helping to align the shot.
Posted 40 months ago.
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If you go to manual mode on your camera go to menu and go to the setting 2 tab , theres an option for mirror lock up , nice for those night shots , that's for an xti anyway , if you need to know where it is on your specific camera brand call cannon , there really nice and can help you find it on your specific model
Posted 40 months ago.
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By far the best tip I've ever heard was to set Custom function 4 to #1 (AE lock/AF). This sets the autofocus to the * button, so that pressing the shutter button halfway only sets the exposure and doesn't focus. This makes composing off-center MUCH easier.
Posted 40 months ago.
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Keep a shower cap from a hotel stay or the dollar store in you camera bag, its small and quick cover in case there's a sudden downpour!
Posted 40 months ago.
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Great post, i need some of those cap keepers.
My first recommendation is a reflector/diffuser. Very useful for adding a bit more light on a face or a flower or softening light. I have a 5 in 1 gold/silver/black/white & diffuser. It folds neatly into a small bag so handy to carry around. A bit of a mission to use when its windy.
Also when its cold keeping batteries in pockets near the skin keeps them warm and they last longer, just swap the cold ones for the warm ones.
Posted 40 months ago.
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I wonder if a coffee filter, rubber band, and the wide-angle diffuser can work for that ?
Posted 40 months ago.
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"Custom function 4 to #1 (AE lock/AF)."
Yes! Back-button focus! It's set differently on newer bodies though:
www.usa.canon.com/dlc/controller?act=GetArticleAct&ar...
One of my friends started using it exclusively after a newspaper photographer showed it to him.
I use it in some circumstances, such as in low light when re-locking focus will be difficult.
Originally posted 40 months ago.
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Chris[topher] Lin edited this topic 40 months ago.
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Back button focus is da bomb.
I always keep the large, white Bunn coffee filters in my bag, along with some rubber bands. Puff it out from the lens of the flash so there is lots of air space, and they beat those Tupperware, uh I mean Sto-Fen things.
Also, two-gallon Zip-Locks are great for shooting in bad weather.
Posted 40 months ago.
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+1 on the Lenspen - just started using mine and it has worked incredibly well. Easy to carry around and keep handy too. Not like cloths which soon end up way dirtier than the lens ;-)
I need to try the back button focus thing.
Posted 40 months ago.
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I need to find get some of those zip-lock bags - the weather down here has been rainy for the past few days and will continue into next week. I do keep a few trashbags in my bag though (in case I need to wrap everything up or cover the backpack from rain leaking through).
To add a few more:
Extension Tubes

I just got these the other day, so I haven't had a ton of time to check them out but they seem to be great so far. Extension tubes are hollow rings that mount between your lens and camera body, allowing you to focus much closer than you normally could (in the image above, I used the 70-200mm f/4L IS lens just inches from the subject, whereas without the tubes the closest focusing distance is 3 feet). These are good if you want to try out macro work without investing in a pricey macro lens. Tubes come in various sizes (12mm, 20mm, 25mm, 36mm) and are stackable (so you could use 12mm, or 12mm+36mm (=48mm), etc..) allowing you to focus even closer. Canon sells them individually (12mm and 25mm) or you can purchase a set (12+20+36) from Kenko or other brands. I've been told to avoid the cheaper ones as they do not allow you to control the aperture at all. Using a lens like the 50mm 1.8 with the tubes, you can get VERY clear images as small as a single hair (when taking test photos, the front of the 50mm lens was touching the subject). You will need a lot of light, but using the Rayflash ringflash adapter worked great in all of my tests.
Model releases
While not very common or necessary for most, I would recommend carrying some just in case. I've seen them in a large range of sizes from pocket sized to several pages. I purchased a 25-pack of premade releases ( www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/71020-REG/Kalt_NP10140_Mod... ). You can also get pre-made ones to print at:
www.asmp.org/commerce/legal/releases/custom_forms/customi...
Rocket Blowers

For anyone (like me) who is a little too afraid to clean their sensor with liquids and brushes, or if you don't want to have the sensor cleaned for $60, look into a Rocket Blower. These are squeeze pumps that blow a burst of air to clear dust from your sensor. I've used mine only a few times but it's worked great and has eliminated any visible dust. They come in a variety of sizes - I went for the Large (I've heard the smaller ones can be tiring since they put out so much less air and require many more pumps). Go for Giottos - they're highly recommended. There are cheaper 3rd parties, but I've heard reports of them blowing pieces of rubber out and onto the sensor (not good!). Also, never used compressed air on a sensor or lenses.. just keep it away from the camera altogether!
Focusing Screens
cpn.canon-europe.com/content/masterclass/eos_40d_focus_sc...
While these don't apply to all models, if you have a 40d/50d you might want to look into the replacement focusing screens. They cost $35-40 a piece but you get the option to add a grid to the focusing screen in the viewfinder, or get one that helps with fast lenses (2.8 and faster). I have the grid and find it to be helpful for lining up shots in the camera rather than in post-production
Posted 40 months ago.
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There already are things to help line up your shots - they are the little squares in the viewfinder used for AF.
Posted 40 months ago.
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I use those all the time.
I also usually carry a SOG Multi-Function Tool with me. I use it all the time when I'm out in the field. It's great if you need to cut tape, cut some string, I use it to cut through vines or small branches that might be in my way. It's also useful if you need a screwdriver or if you have a hangnail. I carry mine almost everywhere......just be careful with it. Don't carry it with you in your carry on bags to the airport......and don't carry it to a school or something like that.
Posted 40 months ago.
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If you do a lot of extreme trekking in hostile environments, don't forget to set yourself up with the 'Ultimate Lens Case':
www.flickr.com/groups/canondslr/discuss/72157612915239606...
:-)
Posted 40 months ago.
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Adapters and step up/down rings.
They cost chuff-all and open up all sorts of possibilities: reversing lenses and reversing lenses onto other lenses (extreme macro!), use old (cheap!) lenses from other manufacturers, use the same filter/s on every lens.
Coloured gels: Cheap fun and games with your flash/es.
Posted 40 months ago.
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If you hate having nose print on the LCD, use your left eye to look into the viewfinder.
Posted 40 months ago.
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Just wanted to share with you that there is another type of lens cap keepers that I discovered recently:
www.hufaholder.com
I bought one of those and it works really great for me. No more pocket lint and no more searching for the cap when you need it. Wonderful little thing.
The only minus side for me: At $ 12.95 (or $11 each if you buy three) it is currently a tad expensive for what it is, but on the other hand I guess you also pay for a great idea.
Originally posted 17 months ago.
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Alter Ego 1975 edited this topic 17 months ago.
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My favorite feature of the 5D mk II is the live histogram.
1) In the Live View function settings, set it to Stills only, exposure simulation.
2) Then, when shooting in Live View mode, cycle through the INFO button views until you reach the one with the histogram.
3) Get a good exposure every time with no chimping!
Posted 17 months ago.
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Alter Ego - that's a neat idea.. I'll have to look into one of those.
I still love the Capkeepers (and will probably stick with them) but the (extremely large) cap on my fisheye lens is always getting in the way.. this might work nicely for that! How thick of a cap can it handle? the fisheye is about an inch thick..
Another neat little tip (works great for video, but also those "tricky" shows where you can't look at the LCD screen.. You can plug in a portable LCD TV (or portable DVD player) and stream the cameras LCD through that..

This monitor even includes a tripod mount on the bottom and has a several-hour battery life. Makes video so much easier, but also if you have a "remote camera". This same monitor has gone for as low as ~$10 in-stores (I paid about $60 online) and works great for this!
(The other cable attached is a wireless trigger release)
Originally posted 17 months ago.
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Mike Rollerson edited this topic 17 months ago.
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I'll take a little different aproach to this question:
Buissness apps for iPhone that I use regularly:
1. Easy Release : You can do a full pdf release including signature in this app and send it to yourself via mail, It's OK'd by Getty as well.
2. SecondShootr : a full customer database you can use to keep track of your customers and shoots.
Posted 17 months ago.
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1. Bouncing your flash off white ceiling/ walls is the best bang for buck diffuser as it is free and is nearly as good as having a large umbrella or softbox.
2. Lenses are more important than camera bodies so any compatible dslr will do, you don't need the latest version.
3. Everyone can afford the best Canon L lenses for free over time if you buy them used and then sell them again for the same price. Since Canon L lenses actualy rocketed in price over the last years, you can actualy charge more on resale and make money using the best Canon lenses. Third party lenses are a money pit and devalue quickly.
4. Canon 5D I is still one of the best cameras (in my opinion) 6 years after it's creation.
Posted 17 months ago.
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These cap keepers are much better than the original ones or the above mentioned method with the sticker (the sticker tends to come off at some point and leave a nasty mark!) Plus they are a lot easier to put on and remove and they stick on a lot better too! www.jessops.com/online.store/products/76686/show.html
A great discovery for me:)
Posted 17 months ago.
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One more tip for sharing ! put Silica Gel in your camera bag; it is helpful for moisture absorbing. :-)
Posted 17 months ago.
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just did that:D thanks
Originally posted 17 months ago.
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Kaisa Pixels edited this topic 17 months ago.
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It only becomes free if you sell that lens on after and then only free in the long term sense of the meaning - its certainly not free when you have to go buy it to start with ;).
Plus whilst a lot of people harp on about the resale value of L lenses you have to also factor in the fact that they are L lenses. For most people you won't want to sell it on unless an upgrade comes out and you've some cash to make up the difference.
If you use Silica Gel remember to regularly dry it out as well. It will only absorb so much moisture before it becomes full and after that point its not doing anything in your bag.
Originally posted 17 months ago.
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Overread2000 edited this topic 17 months ago.
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Safety Shift. For all of you TV and AV shooters out there, this custom setting jumps in to correct the exposure when your settings won't work. There doesn't seem to be any drawbacks for using this setting.
Safety Shift doesn't seem to be offered on the Rebel/xxxD line, but my EOS-3 had it and my 40D and G11 do as well. Just grab your manual and look over the custom functions to see if your camera does. Rather than write about it again, here is a link to a 40D group discussion where I explained it:
www.flickr.com/groups/478915@N23/discuss/7215762335335249...
Originally posted 17 months ago.
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Boneil Photography edited this topic 17 months ago.
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My pockets work great to hold caps, the pocket lint is not really a problem I just give the inside of the cap a quick blow of air with my mouth and that get's rid of almost all the lint. However my Black rapid strap has a cap holder that I like to use as well.
Great info in this thread even though it is over 2 years old!
Originally posted 17 months ago.
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MasterTaker edited this topic 17 months ago.
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Reading the manual HELPS a lot usual...
Posted 17 months ago.
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I always carry the following:
Wet wipes
Small flashlight
Water
Multi-tool
Small notebook/pen
Bandaids
You will be surprised how often these non-photographic items come in handy in the field.
In addition, I keep a small step-ladder in the van. There are times when this comes in very handy. In addition to being able to shoot over obstacles, it really comes in handy in getting a little different perspective from all the other photographers around you. Ansel Adams mounted a platform on top of his IH and shot from it frequently.
For those of us who hate to carry/work out of a bag, a vest works pretty good. However, a vest can be hot here in the South in the summer. I found a Phenix Gear Chest Rig at Ranger Joe's that really works great out in the field and only cost $29.95.
For those of us who are frugal (read cheap), I have made a diffuser for my external flash out of an alcohol bottle. I also made a reflector for the same flash from another alcohol bottle. My DIY beauty dish made from a $1.79 plastic bowl from Target's clearance rack works great and even with the other parts, it cost me less than $15. I did see a DIY softbox made from a styrofoam cooler on here the other day. I have not made it yet, but it is on the agenda.
Posted 17 months ago.
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Can't take credit for this because I read it somewhere but clean out and dry ( thoroughly ! ) a squeezy sauce bottle ( larger the better ), works great as a blower to remove dust from body, lens and sensor and is free :)
Posted 17 months ago.
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Flashlights definitely come in handy! And with the small (yet powerful) LED ones only costing a few dollars, they're a "must have" - both for looking around your location, making sure you didn't "forget" anything and using as a "tool":
For reflectors/diffusers for flashes, "Fun Foam" (sold at craft stores like Michaels for about $1 per sheet) work GREAT.
I can also 2nd _Dinkel_'s recommendation of EasyRelease - while I don't use it for model releases (it's just a hobby for me, for now at least), it seems to work great for those or just keeping track of shoots (getting peoples' information and a photo in case they want a copy, or you need to note who is who). It's a "universal" app so it works natively on the iPad (very nice!)
Silica gel is also great (I hear it's necessary in very humid environments to help prevent lens mold). You can buy it in larger packs (that can be "rejuvenated") for only a couple bucks.. Look for Peli Desiccant Silica Gel or similar.
Optech rain sleeve - only $4 for a 2-pack, it's a ridiculously oversized (for most lenses) "sleeve" that you put your camera into to protect it from rain. While I don't know if I'd be comfortable taking it out in heavy rain, it's good to have in your bag "just in case". The price can't be beat, and with some rubberbands or electrical tape, can work great even on short lenses like a prime or fisheye. It also comes in a version that can hold a flash for about $7 per 2-pack. Great for those in places like CA where it doesn't rain often and it's hard to justify a $100+ rainsleeve that you might never use.
On the same note, garbage bags. Ball it up and throw a rubber band around it- keep it in your bag in the event that it ever starts to rain, and then use it to wrap your bag up until you can get to a dry place. I've had to use this before (a few times, actually) and it's something I now always keep on me.
Posted 17 months ago.
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Some are not specific to DSLR but are things that have helped me over the past year...
- REALLY think about your next equipment purchase, particularly when investing in a lens, tripod and/or head. Think long-term and where possible not about inexpensive you might be able to go. Unfortunately photography does not come cheap so trying to cut corners on critical pieces of equipment could end up costing you more. Been there, done that.
- When in doubt, rent or borrow before purchasing
- Get into a good pattern for organizing your digital images early on or you'll have to play catch up later. Getting into a good post-production process will come with time, but organizing the images comes first.
- Shoot, shoot, shoot...it is amazing how quickly you can improve by reviewing your images, playing with them in post-production and getting feedback (preferrably honest feedback)
- You can learn alot from YouTube videos and of course the folks in this Flickr group.
- +BoldPuppy's comment about tripods - initially I thought a real pain and extra weight but my best images are taken with that and a good ballhead. Refer to my earlier comment about investing in this critical equipment - you don't want to double your expense by buying poor quality. Remember...;think long-term if your budget will allow.
Posted 17 months ago.
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On the OPTech Rain sleeve one bonus it has over many dedicated raincovers is that it does not prevent you controlling the lens. Many dedicated rain covers will cover over the focus, zoom and control switches on most lenses and are not seethrough so you lose all lens control (a major pain with a zoom lens or if AF isn't working well).
The OPTech design means that you've got enough room to move zoom and focus wheels (its a loose fitting) and its clear so you can see what you are doing.
Posted 17 months ago.
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