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look at my diy stuff, you may find some ideas. www.fougougou.com/camera
Posted 23 months ago.
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@decagrog be sure to keep us all up[[dated on your progress
@ Monsieur be: You're having way too much fun :)
Posted 23 months ago.
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@Monsieur be: Thanks for the link, I like a lot your works! (we also talked about the focussing system some time ago :) ) .
So for the Meoblad and the Stenoblad you screwed directly on the body the kiev back?
Heheh I like the "cheap and dirty" solution however I'll search for a solution to use the original lock system....
@TheOtherSimon: Yes I'll post some photos of the result , yesterday I've just started to make a grip from a piece of olive. ( I like the idea to have the grip with a cable shutter release on it ).
Posted 23 months ago.
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Hi,
Just a slight update, in those days i've worked to build the camera,
these are a couple of shots, the whole thing is far to be completed and the wood pieces are still raw.
I've taken some inspiration from the beautiful Ezzie camera www.flickr.com/photos/ezzie0304/4676126084/
I've partially assembled it to try the focus range ...well at this step I'm not very satisfied and i've made also some mistakes:
- I'm really start to think that it will be hard to try guesstimate the right focus with a 105mm lens, also distance scale marked on the helical ring are now totally wrong, so I need to make a new scale from scratch...arrgh!
I'm tempted to change it with a wide lens, but this will mean a rework of the body due to the different focal lenght :/
-The shutter cable will go through the grip with the press button on top, but if you need to adjust the focus lens and shutter will spin and in some position the cable must be detached - well I can search for a longer cable but I don't like this solution...
-Using an helical focus ring from a 50mm on a 105mm: this wasn't a very smart idea, the Tominon 105mm need a more deep excrusion than that to focus at all distance .
So actually I can focus only from 1.8/2 meter to 30-40meter (at least I hope that a 30-40m focussed @ f/11 still will give a little of focus also to infinite).
In conclusion I'm a bit sad about the result and my lack of serious thinking for avoid those mistakes but for sure I'll finish it, peraphs this will be just a prototype...
If you guys have any suggestion or improvement please i'd like to hear!
Posted 22 months ago.
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cool ^^
Posted 22 months ago.
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awesome. its looking good so far.
Posted 22 months ago.
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For the groundglass, hopfglass.com .That's where I ordered mine.
Due to fly in this week.
Laurens
Posted 22 months ago.
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I've finally finished the camera and just loaded the first roll :)
The main concern actually is to write down the correct marks distance on the helical ring... i've tried to put a square of paper into the back in order to se the lens projection and mark the correct focus on the ring at various distances (ex: 1.5m , 2m, 2.5m, 3m, 4m, 6m, 10m , infinite), but is very hard to see when the image is really focused, there's not enough detail...
There is a better way to mark correctly the helical ring? Maybe is possible make some userful calculation given th focal lens and helical excursion?
There was also serious light leaks between film back-body and lens-aluminium plate: I've used 1.5 thick foam for the back and sort of black paste (is that one used to seal the engine halves, is very elastic and durable, and don't stick to much) for the plate.
Here're a couple of pics:
Originally posted 22 months ago.
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decagrog edited this topic 22 months ago.
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Try using frosted see through tape. Tape it across the film gate. Poor man's ground glass. Also, I collimated my lens to infinity. This means that it'll focus to infinity, and the close distance focusing will be whatever it will be. In my case I ended up with approx 1,2m
Posted 21 months ago.
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White plastic bag will work. Testor's Dull Cote (Michael's has it) will work on glass. It will wash off under water. But will do the job for you. Just get a cheap glass cutter and cut the glass from a dollar store photo frame to size. Stand a foot or two away and give it a light coating and let dry.
Posted 21 months ago.
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I have used wax paper and frosted tape for this in the past (and Wayne's idea of a white plastic bag sounds like a good thing to try too); along with a loupe or other lens to examine the focused image as closely as possible. I found that looking at distant point sources at night (such as streetlights) provided a high-contrast image for determining infinity focus fairly accurately.
Posted 21 months ago.
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A CD cover with one surface dipped briefly in paint thinner works well too.
Posted 21 months ago.
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Sorry for the late reply I've forgotten to check the board in those days...
Those seems all good ideas and I hope to try all on my next camera....since that one was for a gift now it's time to make a camera for myself! :)
I ended to use a ground glass from a dismantled kiev88, it worked pretty good but as Denverdad pointed out is also important to have a subject with a good contrast to focus on...for me it was userful print on an A3 paper a series of black stripes of different dimension.
Posted 20 months ago.
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If you are interested in some photos about the construction I've written down here an article about the camera.
Thanks again for the help , I'm gonna to start to bring the necessary stuff the for the next (and personal) camera and hope to put in practice your advice!
Posted 20 months ago.
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I saw that you had some problems with focus om the camera you made with ad domiplan 50mm and a tominom 105mm. It's possible to calculate what the scale on 50mm equals on 105mm using the formula 1/b=1/a+1/d. b=distans in meter from the lens to the film. a=focus distans(this is a negativ number) d=focal length in m.
to calculate how much the lens have to move forward on a 50mm lens to have focus on 1 m.
1/b=1/-1+1/0.05
1/b=-1+20
b=1/19
b=0.0526
the lens moved forward (0.0026m) 2.6mm (0.0526-0.0026)
If we are interest what the 1 m mark on the 50mm helicoil (lens moved 2.6mm) equals then using a 105mm lens we can use the same formula.
1/(0.105+0.0026)=1/a+1/0.105
9.29=1/a+9.52
1/a=-0.23
a=-4.35
this gives you that the 1 m mark equals 4.35 m when using the 105mm.
Hope this will help you when building cameras, feel free to contact me if you need more assistans using this formuala.
I learned this when I studied to be an optican.
Posted 18 months ago.
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