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Airshow how to's using Nikon D40.

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Yvon Dionne says:

Hello everybody I'm new to the group and digital photography. Looking for some tips on how to use this Nikon D40 at airshows. Stay safe.
Posted at 4:22PM, 25 July 2008 PDT (permalink)

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chris ( in awe of analogue ) says:

I'm not expert, but since nobody else has replied to you, this is my 2 cents worth. I think the D40 will be no different to any other camera, perhaps with 2 exceptions. 1) it's a small, light camera and may not balance well with larger lenses. 2) you can't use Af lenses with it, only AF-S, so that rules out the standard airshow lens, the 80-400, at least if you wanted to use it in AF mode. Apart from that, here's a few thoughts

* You want the longest lens you can get for ground to air shots. 300mm absolute minimum, so something like a 70-300 VR would be a good, relatively inexpensive choice, or for possibly better photo quality, a 80-200 f/2.8 AF-S with a 1.4 TC to give you 280mm (you can also take the TC off and have a fast indoors lens that way). If you wanted to spend more, you could get something like a 300 f/4 AF-S and add a choice of TC's - 1.4x or 1.7x, or 2.0x but the 2.0x might be pushing the AF on a D40. Even with the 1.7x, remembering to add the crop factor, you are getting like 765mm. Others will have lens suggestions for you as well. I am not sure if the Sigma 50-500 will focus on the D40 or not but that's popular too.

* For jets, go ahead and crank up the shutter speed - you might consider using A mode and locking an appropriate aperture. For prop aircraft I would try for 1/250 or 1/320, to keep a nice blurred prop, but that takes practise to keep the plane sharp at that speed. For choppers I use 1/125 or 1/160, and it's even more of a challenge!! Keep the ISO low for both props and choppers, or you end up with ridiculous apertures like 1/32 which rob sharpness.

* I'd shoot the highest quality JPG so you have more potential for cropping and retaining the highest photo quality

* Keep the drive mode on continuous high, and the AF on AF-C, and fire a burst starting just before the thing you want to capture, then pick the best shot later, or you'll miss the action by the time you hit the shutter. I don't know about the D40, but you may be able to reassign the AF to another button, then you can AF with your thumb and you don't have to keep the shutter button halfway down all the time.

* Buy the most memory cards you can afford, and the fastest too - speed is not an issue for shooting but for downloading later, it's too painful with slow cards once you've experienced a fast card!!!

Edit: * Metering: If you can fill the frame with airplane, then I found matrix metering is just fine. The problem comes when you have a lot of sky, that will confuse the metering leading to underexposure. If you find that you have this problem, then you can 1) fill more of the frame with plane which you should have done in the first place, or 2) switch to centre weighted or spot metering. I haven't really used centre weighted much, I suspect it might work better than spot metering, depending on what colour the plane is painted, believe it or not.

Edit: * If you can get a battery grip for the D40 I'd recommend getting one. It adds a bit of weight which helps balance the big lenses, it gives your little finger somewhere to sit, it adds LOTS of extra shooting time, and it looks sexier

Edit: * My (possibly advanced level) tip for avoiding missing the action, and assuring great exposures: Switch your image review on at the start of the day, shoot a few test shots of stuff flying around, make sure the histograms look good - make sure they don't run up against the right side too hard - and then switch the review off and get shooting. If your metering is working okay then you really don't need to look at the LCD as you can't gauge sharpness or exposure (other than clipping that is) out in the field off sucky LCDs, although Nikon probably has an advantage over Canon there.
Originally posted 47 months ago. (permalink)
chris ( in awe of analogue ) edited this topic 47 months ago.

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Speedy_MSD  Pro User  says:

It's a broad question, Chris has covered a lot of things...
Don't know Nikon stuff so general comments:
take lots of memory & battery
At least 200mm focal length for airborne shots (Chris says 300 - depends on resolution & light)
Af modes can be a problem as the AF will lose the small aeroplane in the sky, maybe pre-focus & run with AF off?
panning is an important skill, see Chris' comments about shutter speed for prop aircraft... this will ONLY come with practice, not hardware can help that.
Posted 47 months ago. (permalink)

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chris ( in awe of analogue ) says:

300mm is my idea of a minimum. YMMV of course
Posted 47 months ago. (permalink)

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chris ( in awe of analogue ) says:

And one last note - regarding use of AF - I found it helpful to disable all predictive focussing stuff and lock the AF onto the centre sensor. Then all you gotta do is keep the plane centred. Leave a bit of space around it and you can then crop so the plane has a bit of room in front of it, but apart from a bit of space in front of it you really want to fill as much of the frame as possible
Originally posted 47 months ago. (permalink)
chris ( in awe of analogue ) edited this topic 47 months ago.

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Avsfan2006  Pro User  says:

A lot of good stuff has been covered. I will add that you should think about where you would like to stand during the performances. You can either stand at "show center" to catch the typical side-on shots or offset to either side to try and get some different angles. Being at "show center" will possibly allow you to get shots of the aircraft as they taxi past the line. This of course is if the taxiway is close to the showline.
Posted 47 months ago. (permalink)

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Yvon Dionne says:

Thanks guys...I use a Nikkor 70-300mm VR.
Cheers
Posted 47 months ago. (permalink)

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BeWePa  Pro User  says:

Hi,

All in all, I agree with what has been said. A 70-300 vr seems good indeed. For my 2 cents: I am not an expert but took my D40 with an old 80-200 zoom to an airshow near Paris recently. This meant I had MF and no metering. I did not feel too challenged by the situation, although a longer lens and VR would have been handy sometimes. Fortunately, the planes were quite close at this meeting.

My exposition setting was not always optimal, but that was more due to my lack of experience than to the lack of metering. When the planes are flying, they catch more light than on the ground (at least for the not ideal lighting conditions I had). I doubt that full automatic metering would have done so much better though.

The manual focusing was not so much of a problem.

Some pics here:
flickr.com/photos/bw94/sets/72157605385004968/

To sum up, yes, the D40 is a very good camera, and also should work for airshows.
Posted 47 months ago. (permalink)

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chris ( in awe of analogue ) says:

I've tried manual focussing with another brand SLR at an airshow and found it not too bad, especially at smaller apertures. If the D40 has an electronic rangefinder like my F5 then it could certainly be achievable.
Originally posted 47 months ago. (permalink)
chris ( in awe of analogue ) edited this topic 47 months ago.

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BeWePa  Pro User  says:

The D40 has an electronic focusing aid, but not great. I forgot to mention I have a focusing screen with focusing aid (split screen and microprism) which is useful indeed.
Posted 47 months ago. (permalink)

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Tom Tiger  Pro User  says:

Nikkon has this one, the Nikkor 80-400 VR

www.nikonians.org/nikon/nikkor-80-400mm/review.html

Expensive... though less expensive as Canons 100-400 L USM IS. (Canons equivalent)

All depends on what you want to spend, there's allways sigmas Bigma Airshow lens the 50-500mm but that one wants loads of light....

just my two cents, I'm a Canonian myself not a Nikonian :-)
Posted 46 months ago. (permalink)

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Yvon Dionne says:

Again thanks will be posting photos soon..
Posted 46 months ago. (permalink)

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Mawz  Pro User  says:

Sigma's got a couple of nice new options for the D40. The 120-400 HSM OS and the 150-500 HSM OS. Both are stabilized and will AF on the D40. Slowish, but cheaper than an 80-400 in both cases.
Posted 46 months ago. (permalink)

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