Sticky 

Hi All

when it's done it's done 7:15pm, 22 December 2013
Just acquired hull No.451, a fin keel with a yanmar 1GM10 inboard, but with a few problems!

Some sponginess on the coachroof, and water ingress coming through starboard side bulkhead and tracking and dripping.

Also, chain plate degradation (u-bolts removed now for assessment and drying out).

Scruffy mast repair following dismasting (chain plate related).

Will probably result in a new mast but got to get the core structure sound before making THAT kind of investment!

Anyway, Hi to all. Look forward to making some new friends and getting some good advice.

Regards.
b.mercer 5 years ago
Hi and welcome. That is a fair bit to start with but take a look on the index via the Achilles 24 site for a lot of advice on those issues. Take some photos so we can all see and hopefully be more helpful . Where are you based ?
admin
NormanKlipspringer Posted 5 years ago. Edited by NormanKlipspringer (admin) 5 years ago
Welcome to the site. I agree with Bob. use the Flickr index in www.achillesyachts.co.uk to start with. You can also use the Flickr search facility. If still got issues then start a discussion. Is the boat still called 'Ensis' and do you sail from Groomsport? I assume that your name is Lee Philpot. It would be useful for you to use the Flickr profile to tell us the basic details about yourself and your boat. Have a look at my profile by clicking on the lick below:
www.flickr.com/people/achilles24/
All the best.
Norman
pjbharrison Posted 5 years ago. Edited by pjbharrison (member) 5 years ago
Welcome to the group.

Post some photos of the problem areas and I'm sure you'll get lots of advice.
Slycat777 in Ballycastle got a 2nd hand mast from the UK so may be able to advise you.
Formerly Ensis now called SUVA but re--homed now in sunny Swansea if anyone wants to come and take a look. There are another 2 or 3 here in Mumbles alongside her on the hard.

I will upload some photos soon.
admin
NormanKlipspringer 5 years ago
Thanks for that Lee. Just up the road from me. I shall be bringing my boat to Swansea in Feb. The photos you uploaded are public domain but are not in the Achilles group so unless people go looking for them they will not find them. Copy them across to the Achilles group for all Achilles owners to see and comment etc. I have updated your info for Suva on the main web site. If you want me to come and have a look I am more than happy to. Send me an email to norman@achillesyachts.co.uk with your contact details. Don't publish on this site remember it is public domain so anyone can see what you write.
Norman
admin
NormanKlipspringer Posted 5 years ago. Edited by NormanKlipspringer (admin) 5 years ago
Glad to see that you have managed to get your photos into the Achilles group. Thanks for the visit to your boat yesterday. Once you get the cabin roof and mast sorted I think you will have a decent boat.
Norman
Thanks for visiting!

I have been researching the web for techniques and methods for replacing rotten deck coring and the consensus seems to be that it is possible to do small areas from underneath (albeit a bit tricky) but for larger areas, it's best done from above.

I was intrigued by your window fixing solution. If you could link the product that would be great.

Cheers.
bengunn2 Posted 5 years ago. Edited by bengunn2 (member) 5 years ago
Hi Lee, core replacement can be a pain, I have done it on a number of boats over the years and have found it easier to replace from the inside, in quite large panels, by pre-laminating the core material on one side ( my favoured core is Nidaplast honeycomb) and bonding the other side which is epoxy primed, to the deckhead with an epoxy paste. I use a vaccum bag method to hold in place whilst curing, although a totally satisfactory job can be achieved with props and battens. Looking at my A24 which requires this to be done, I shall probably split the replacement into 4 panels. By pre-laminating the inside face of the new core on a work table and it is fully cured, halve the job is done, and it still allows the panel to conform to the camber on most decks, once the bonding paste is fully cured, it forms a very good sandwich.
good luck.
Ian
Thanks for the advice, unfortunately, I am left guessing what half of what you have described actually involves.

I can't visualise the vacuum bag method. There are pictures of one member on here bonding plywood squares onto the underside with props, then apparently re-glassing the whole lot afterwards.

My main concern with doing it from underneath is airpockets.

boatworkstoday.com/archives/1088

Check this out for topside replacement (there are 4 in total).

I haven't made up my mind yet how to tackle this, but thank you for your input, which I shall carefully consider.
bengunn2 Posted 5 years ago. Edited by bengunn2 (member) 5 years ago
Hi Lee, I'm quite happy to talk you through the whole proccess as I very briefly described in the previous post. It was meant as a pointer to another method which I have used successfully, (virtually no overhead laminating) I'm sorry it was unclear to you. if you google vac bagging there are plenty of detailed explanations which will give you a basic understanding of the system, no point in me repeating what's already out there. The whole idea of a sandwich construction, is to impart stiffness to a given panel without adding uneccessary weight, ie, the thicker the core is, the thinner the bonded skins need to be for a given panel stiffness, I really would not reccommend using ply as a core material, it's added strength is uneccessary and it's added weight is unwelcome. If you're worried about air pockets ply will only exaserbate the situation.
please PM me if you wish.
regards Ian
admin
NormanKlipspringer Posted 5 years ago. Edited by NormanKlipspringer (admin) 5 years ago
Lee, the tape I used for the windows was Scapa 3509 25ml X 3mm
from www.shandhigson.co.uk/products/High-Density-Black-foam-Sc... . It is sticky on both sides so I stuck it first to the Perspex as it comes off the roll, then removed the protective cover before sticking to the boat.
The link to my discussion on fitting the tape to the windows can be found in the following discussion:
www.flickr.com/groups/achilles24/discuss/72157623136994756/
You will need to scroll down a bit to find the relevant bit.
JUST CHECKED THE TAPE AND IT IS STICKY ON ONE SIDE ONLY AS I FIRST REMEMEBERED!!!!!
Good luck.
Norman
Groups Beta