Slycat777 12:51pm, 26 August 2010
Hey all.

My name is Chris Cartin and I've just aquired an Achilles 24 as an upgrade from my Corribee MK 1. Looks like a great boat and I hope to have her tidied up and in the water next season.

As you might expect I've a lot of questions as a new owner! For starters....

The boat was recently repainted so there's no name. There is a name 'Jenny' on the trailer tho... anyone know the boat?

Next, the only thing of immediate concern to me was the forestay fixing. It appears to be a silver of metal that goes through the deck (only sealant around that join) and is attached to the bow of the boat, looks to be just glassed in. I was expecting some sort of wide plate fixing beneath the deck. Is this usual? If so, has it ever caused problems?

Nice to meet you all, look foward to the replies.

busy home [deleted] 8 years ago
No Problems re reinforcing forestay att.. as long as the rod still exists
(they rust away ..) not a problem, no plate under deck.(as far as i remember)
check out the chain plate u bolts on transome ... bent and no washers on Chille ,,,
Anyway welcome Chris ,, Plenty of clever Achilles nutters on here.
Ive rebuilt three!!
Norm has plenty of bumph ,, re names etc I will also have a look
The Achilles is very similar to the corribee ,, poor accomadation
good sailing You will get used to her Quickly im sure,
Shout if you have any questions,,
songeur2010 8 years ago
I was cleaning out the chain locker in Songeur a couple of days ago and found a whole lot of rusty metal in the bottom. The reinforcing for the forestay has had the David Copperfield treatment, vanished. The forestay has been extended with a shackle and is now attached to the bow roller which probably explains why there is a roller hanging off the pulpit for the anchor. If anyone has any dimensions of this component I can make one up and glass it in place.
busy home [deleted] 8 years ago
On Chille I glassed in a plate with a tang where the old bit attached
Used a bottle screw as a tensioner , used a piece of s/s strip onto the bottom of the attachment .... to the forestay,, A strop would do ..
The bottle screw means measurments are not crucial in a very difficult and dark area,!
Slycat777 8 years ago
Thanks guys! One less thing to worry about!

Next... where the forestay (and I presume spinnacher) attaches to the mast theres a 10" ish reinforced section around the front of the mast. Like somone has patched it or something (the 'patch' is a slightly darker material than the rest of the mast)

Is this just how that seciton of the mast is? Or is this a repair job?

If the latter, is it likley to be strong enough?


pjbharrison 8 years ago
Hi Chris

Got some photos?
NormanKlipspringer 8 years ago
Welcome Chris,
I have checked my records which are far from complete and cannot find any record of a 'Jenny'. If you post some pictures then we should be able to identify wheather she is an early or late boat.

Good sailing.
NormanKlipspringer 8 years ago
Forestay normall goes to the top of the mast over a roller and is attched with a loop to a rod which slides through the mast. Spannaker uphaul is not that high up the mast.
busy home [deleted] 8 years ago
Not on 3/4 rigged boats .
busy home [deleted] 8 years ago
I bet its just jenny
Slycat777 8 years ago
Hey all,
Got those photos.

Should be under my username in the 'restoration' set.

This may be the link...

The fixing looks very solid, just wanted your input as to if its standard and/or safe!
busy home [deleted] 8 years ago
No not safe ,, Sorry,, new one required,(would you feel happy in a f5 with this above your head, )
Where are you ? SH masts available down here.(Falmouth)
Slycat777 8 years ago
Unfortunatly Im based in Northern Ireland. May be difficult to get a SH mast over here I fear :(
Andrew Curry 8 years ago

If it was me i would not scrap the mast just yet. I would get the grinder out and remove the old repair to see what the problem was.
A well done repair might still be possible. I am also in N Ireland (Bangor) were abouts are you?

Slycat777 8 years ago
Thanks for the input so far guys.

I' m based in Ballycastle, but travel up and down to Belfast a lot.

Just had a great season in my old Corribee and looking forwards to getting the Achilles on the water! Just nervous about this mast repair.

Slycat777 8 years ago
Ok next part of my question list!

Posted a few new pics of my missing front hatch..

I keep hearing Achilles owners talk about their front hatches but in place of a hatch I have this... looks like evidence of a hatch but no actual hatch!
Possible it was just glassed over?
Seems totally sound (I can walk on it), but also seems strange....
busy home [deleted] 8 years ago
Tidy it up , and leave it..!!
It wont leak then.
Slycat777 8 years ago
Great, thats the answer I was hoping for ;)


I'm a bit new to the concept of a boom with blocks etc. My corribee had a very simple boom arrangment with boom roller reefing. Anyone got a few shots that show rigging options for the Achilles boom?

I assume its normally setup to allow outhaul adjustment and potentially reefing lines to be set.

Thanks again.

I think once I figure out the boom rigging and get the mast replaced I'm good to go, all the rest of the work is cosmetic :)
busy home [deleted] Posted 8 years ago. Edited by busy home (member) 8 years ago
Check out my on 324. Some there of Chilles main set up..
Roller reefing is possible but most prefer slab ,,
A hook at the gooseneck to attach cringle and line from boom to sail to boom to foreward to cleat on boom,,, reefing done at mast,,,,,,,You have to let go a preset length of halliard and remove pin that stops sail dropping in guide ??/ ///
Slycat777 8 years ago
Ah, these are great.

Question on this one:

Where do these reefing lines go after the blocks on the boom?

busy home [deleted] Posted 8 years ago. Edited by busy home (member) 8 years ago
On Chille they go inside the boom via cutouts ,,,then out again at foreward end . Goskars are outside cliped to boom by rope guide clips.
Then onto a cleat about a foot back from gooseneck..
Or you might try single line reefing ,,,, ie line from boom aft up through sail cringle ,,down to boom ,,, foreward to gooseneck up through cringle ,,, down to deck ... back to cockpit,,, to jammer. .. .. But you have to go to pull out the sail slide stopper ... and friction is greater.. The choice is yours !
Amrum 9171Y 8 years ago
I kept boom roller reefing, and haven't regretted it. When I bought a new mainsail from Crusader I was going to go to slab reefing but was advised not to as 'on Achilles roller reefing works' (quote from Crusader). I find it very simple and effective, and the sail when reefed seems to set very well. It was also cheaper, and the only thing I had to sort out was the reefing claw for the kicking strap.
rothwell_neil 8 years ago
Picture added for reefing lines.
G4NLA1 8 years ago
Little Plum has slab reefing, but it really does nothing for sail shape.I know, I used it when came back from Cardiff last weekend. I would prefer to go back to using roller reefing - the only problems is that in all the 'stuff' I have found on LP I have not found a reefing claw for the kicking strap.

If anyone has one available please get in touch, or advise on where I might obtain one !!

jendave1 8 years ago
I got our claw from, cost £37.
They're under 'chandlery' - 'YS deck fittings' - 'YS deck hardware' (don't know what 'YS' means?).
They do 3 sizes, we went for 126mm diameter which enables most of the sail to come down, but you have to take it off to completely roll up the sail. There is a 175mm diameter for £65 which would probably take the whole furled sail.
We only connect it when reefed, otherwise it lives in the cockpit locker.
I have a wire rope to connect it back to the boom end, I was finding rope too stretchy. Snifter has a great arrangement with a bar onto the mast, would be the best solution if possible.
Slycat777 8 years ago
Good tips guys.
I checked the roller reefing mechanism and it works. I used to use it a lot on the corribee and was very pleased with it.

On the corribee I just didnt bother with the kicknig strap but that wouldnt work on the Achilles.

Is there a risk the claw will damage the sail when rolled?
Andrew Curry 8 years ago
I dont use a reefing claw. Instead i roll a length of webbing into the sail as its reefed which is then attached to the kicker.
Amrum 9171Y 8 years ago
I had a reinforcing patch put on the mainsail when it was made by Crusader, which runs up the mainsail where the claw goes. I'm not sure it's needed, but it can't do any harm.
In one of the yachting mags recently I saw claws advertised at the Retreat boatyard down near Exeter. I think they are like the ones on the Trident site (which I wasn't aware of), but i haven't compared prices. The 175mm one looks ideal, but is quite expensive. Definitely an advantage to be able to roll the sail without removing the claw each time.
There must be lots of unused claws out there somewhere with all the A24s converting to slab reefing!
Slycat777 8 years ago
I've added pics of my boom end to the group.
Some details and questions on the description of the pic itself.

I'm planning to attach the outhaul directly to the sail and run the line back throuhg the lower block to the cockpit. Is this correct? Is 1:1 enough or do I need a set of blocks somewhere?

Slycat777 8 years ago
What do you guys think about this potential replacment mast?

I'd need to cut it down, but that could be a good thing as the damage to this mast (1 foot long crack) is right at the bottom...
pjbharrison 8 years ago
Hi Chris
The add only shows one photo. Are there any more photos or details available? Do you have dimensions? What boat is it from?
Slycat777 8 years ago
From the seller:
The problem with the mast was that water froze in it over last winter &
burst through it. There's now a vertical crack in it about a foot long,
about two feet from the base. A mechanical engineer in my Club recommended
to me that I drill a hole top & bottom of the crack, to stop it spreading &
weld the crack. He reckoned it would be ok. However, I reckoned I was
covered by insurance & I was, so my insurance company paid for a new mast.
The mast is only a nuisance to me now, so I'll let it go for a nominal sum
to anyone who wants it.
I only advertised it yesterday & this morning I got three other enquiries.
I attach a photo showing the crack.

The mast would be too long for your boat, which raises the question of
cutting a piece off one or both ends. Depending on how much you needed to
cut, this raises problems for boom height.

I'll ask what boat it came from!
Slycat777 8 years ago
It's from a Beneteau Oceanis 350.
busy home [deleted] 8 years ago
Slightly large all round I would say!!!!!!!
Andrew Curry 8 years ago
I would agree with Ron it would probably be to big. A mast of a Ruffian 23 would be ideal. Have you contacted all the yacht clubs?
Slycat777 8 years ago
No , only a few clubs.
Must make a list and ring them all!
Andrew Curry 8 years ago
Heres a list of all the clubs in N Ireland
Slycat777 8 years ago
Hey, another mast option that is quite close to me (Newry).

I added the photos. The mast came from a 29ft sailing boat but type of boat unknown. Mast is in good condition. I noticed the pullys are 90 degrees off for an Achilles, but I suppose thats the least of my worries!

Look suitable if it was cut down? The seller also owns an Achilles, so I've asked him how the mast compares generally to the Achilles mast.
pjbharrison 8 years ago
Looks promising. Can you measure its diameter to see if your current mast foot would fit?
Slycat777 8 years ago
The seller says the mast is generally similar in dimensions to the achilles mast. Interestingly he says the mast foot fitting is also similar to the Achilles.

The bottom of my old mast has also been repaired,so I dont think I'd be able to get the old mast foot off. The masts seem to be quite different shapes at the bottom too.

Main question now is probably, is a 33' mast too long to cut down for an Acilles?

Also, if I got lucky and the mast foot fitted my boat, could I take the extra length off the top?
Andrew Curry 8 years ago
If the mast is the same diameter along its length you should be able to shorten from the top. But before doing this you must consider were the spreaders will be. If possible it might to best to work from the spreaders on the new mast and shorten the mast at the top and bottom to suit. Remember that the height and positioning of the spreaders is a critical measurement. To simplify things I would also look at running external halyards instead of the standard Achilles set up of internal halyards.
Slycat777 8 years ago
I assume it would be feasible to just cut from the top and then move the spreaders down, using my current mast as a template for spreader location?

Sounds like the trickiest thing may be installing new fixings for the back/forestay etc.
Slycat777 8 years ago
This is also interesting ,looks like you can just buy heels for proctor masts. The mast heel fitting looks the same design as an achilles mast heel too!
Slycat777 8 years ago
Somewhere in my posts I was discussing wether I needed to get a long shaft OB for my Achilles as I couldnt get the short shaft one to work.

Just a note to say that with a few extra pairs of hands, and making full use of the adjustments available on the outboard itself we were able to get the short shaft to fit. The prop _just_ shows out of the well, so should be ok.

Very relieved. My current outboad is a bit shabby looking and a bit old but it's very, very reliable, and so I didnt want to change it!
Andrew Curry 8 years ago
Most Achilles used long shaft outboards i would have thought that this was the way to go. You will have plenty of tides to push so i would have thought you would have wanted all the power you could get.
Andrew Curry 8 years ago
Since this is in your part of the north coast do you think it would be possible to take an achilles into Ballintoy harbour i have often wondered and have looked at the charts and it does look very tight depth wise.
Slycat777 Posted 8 years ago. Edited by Slycat777 (member) 8 years ago
Well, the tides are so strong around our way that pushing them is not even an option! Its totally impossible to beat the worst tides here so it's more about journey planning than brute force.

It depends what you mean by take an achilles into the harbour. The main harbour itself (where boots are moored up overnight etc) is quite shallow but there are deep sections. The local harbour master assures me the Achilles could be moored there but there would need to be careful consideration given to where it was moored in the harbour. Local fishermen warned me that even in the inner harbour it gets very rough. I believe there were 2-3 boats sunk or badly damaged last year!

There is an outer harbour wall outside the mooring section which should allow easy mooring on a short term basis. Would be very exposed but on a calm day would be fine for stopping off to grab lunch at the harbour cafe I reckon.

Just noticed your pics. You can see the external and internal sections (seperated by the narrower mouth), and also how exposed the harbour is to a northerly wind/swell!!
David Harper1 Posted 8 years ago. Edited by David Harper1 (member) 8 years ago
hi sliycat i sailed this Achilles about 12 years ago Granton Edinburgh. The mast is a fractional rig ( small Genoa) mast is of a different type of yacht. the boat was still competitive we won a few races with it.
Slycat777 8 years ago
David! What great timing!
I've just been struggling to find out about the history of the boat and it's required for the coding I'm doing for commercial sailing.

Would you be able to confirm the boat was sailed in 'coastal conditions' for 5+ yrs?

What was the boat called back then?

Great to hear from a previous owner ;)
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