Cheek Blocks

Skykomish E29 3:53pm, 2 February 2008
Hi on a routine inspection of the deck gear I have found that all four cheek blocks are not only seized but starting to crumble. Unfortunately in their infinate wisdom Butler mouldings used a non standard cheek block manufactured by Main Marine (long since gone the way of many). The base plate is shaped like a curved triangle which matches the deck moulding with only three fixing screws.
Does anybody know of a supplier that sells similar fittings? Most seem only to have four mounting screws that would not match the moulding on the deck and would require filling and shaping to provide a base area suitable for mounting the rectangular plate.
There is not enough clearance under the grab handles where these mount to make a complicated adaptor plate which was an idea that passed briefly through my head.
Any suggestions would be appreciated
busy home [deleted] 11 years ago
Whats crumbling? the wheel or the black plastic body?
I can turn you a new wheel in nylon (or 4)
Skykomish E29 Posted 11 years ago. Edited by Skykomish E29 (member) 11 years ago
The pulley but how do I open up the casing they appear to be rivetted?
busy home [deleted] 11 years ago
Drill the rivets?
Goskar nor Chille have that type so I dont know,
Skykomish E29 Posted 11 years ago. Edited by Skykomish E29 (member) 11 years ago
Hate to sound thick but how would I rassemble them?
Yes looking at your deck photo of Goskar it appears that yours are the same shape but Tuffnol blocks, unfortunately a google search reveals the same problem these are all made with four mounting holes . I can see that i shall have to get the Barton blocks and drill new holes using filler to make the deck fit the base plate. I don't have the faith that the filler manufacturers have of being able to drill through it without crumbling. I suppose thinking about it I could use spacer washers between the deck and baseplate of block where it extends past the moulding then infill around the washers, that would then give the strength and support.
Thanks for the kind offer anyway Ron
busy home [deleted] 11 years ago
Could you reassemble using pan head bolts (upsidedown) resit on filler ?
You can drill filler without crumbling ok .
Skykomish E29 11 years ago
Skykomish E29 11 years ago
I have been back to the boat and done some measurements. the thickest diameter line that passes through these is 8mm and so a number 3 block is a bit overkill (original specification), therefore I can use barton number 2 blocks. being smaller I may well be able to sit them on the original moulding just redrilling the mounting holes
busy home [deleted] 11 years ago
I have to alter all Goskars turn block positions ,I have new 2 pulley barton ones. I will raise the mast in my yard in April to work out the rigging length as im putting larger bottle screws on. (the old ones are siezed imperial thread .no longer obtainable and the metric new ones are to small or to big) so I will have to shorten the shrouds etc to accomadate the bigger ones,
Have you looked at double jepardys photos (all of them)? wow!
NormanKlipspringer Posted 11 years ago. Edited by NormanKlipspringer (admin) 11 years ago
I managed to find new (still in original packageing) cheek blocks at a boat jumble last year (£2 each). Although at the time I only needed two I bought the entire stock (4). What a good job I did since when I fitted my halyard clutches I needed to reposition the cheek blocks and found this extremely difficult without damage, so had to use the blocks I bought. These are the cheek blocks that have one of the fixing bolts under the grab rail. The bolt will not come clear very easily. Every boat jumble I go to I am on the look out for tufnel cheek blocks, but since my lucky find I have not found any. If I had not had my lucky find I was planning to use Barton blocks (no 3) or an organiser.
There is one block for sale on Ebay - check out link below:
Skykomish E29 Posted 11 years ago. Edited by Skykomish E29 (member) 11 years ago
Norman Tuffnol blocks are still available but not with the three screw mounting which is the rub. a google search has revealed a site for Main Marine but I don't think it is the same one that supplied the blocks as I knew the owner of that factory based in Deal and it closed down years ago, I am hoping on the off chance that the company was sold and this may be what is left of it.
Failing that as i said I will use the Barton blocks, number 2 I think will fit on the deck moulding as it is quite a bit smaller than the Number three and will accommodate 8 mm rope
NormanKlipspringer 11 years ago
If you follow the link to ebay the block forsale has three holes. Gibb made identical blocks. I have both Main and Gibb on my boat.
Skykomish E29 Posted 11 years ago. Edited by Skykomish E29 (member) 11 years ago
Right I have bitten the bullet and bought two size 3 barton cheek blocks as they were in a chandlers marked at an old price, and after checking two of the fixing screws lined up perfectly with the originals. The Barton blocks are slightly shorter and so they do not protrude very much at all from the edge of the original curved deck moulding. Two new holes and some sealant job done........ I didn't mention the fun I had dropping the headlining!!!!! This obvioulsy by it's nature took up the whole cabin and proved quite difficult to reach the nuts under the saloon roof for the blocks, quite a stretch. Still have the other two to do but the ones I have done don't look out of place at all, and the halyards run Ohhhhhhhhhhhhh so much better!
rothwell_neil 11 years ago
I have also bought the Barton cheek blocks and will be fitting these in addition to the old blocks to route the kicker and reefing line back to the cockpit, have plenty of clutches so need more than the standard 4 cheek blocks. My originals are fine.
Skykomish E29 11 years ago
I know it is probably not really a reason to do it but I am pleased that I have fitted the Barton Cheek blocks as once completed I would have replaced all blocks on board with Bartons and so looks nice and uniform.
Certainly needed them as I said lines run so much better through correctly working pulleys.
blueachilles 11 years ago
Re the headlining; Blue's is in one piece and the builders must have built the boat around it, as it is impossible to get it out of the boat.
Skykomish E29 11 years ago
Yes i agree hence the problems reaching the far end of the cabin when I had dropped it!!!
Perhaps uncle Ron can tell us how He and Ian Replaced theirs, not that i am thinking of doing it yet, but i imagine it must be difficult to get a neat and tidy job done then refit.
busy home [deleted] Posted 11 years ago. Edited by busy home (member) 11 years ago
We did not have original headlinings in either boat ,in fact none in either boat!
Chilles is made in two halves with strip of wood down the middle.
i turned a surround for the vent .
Battens were made and glued (sika) to the roof and vinyl covered ply attached by six self tappers with plastic covers .
The only problem is the recessed down lighters which get very hot.
Goskar will have a strip light as original ,I read an article somewhere where the old strip light came out very well (re power consumption /luminance) look at myphoto june 3 07 head lining
Groups Beta