rothwell_neil 8:49pm, 7 December 2007
I had a pleasant day fettling the boat today but I have two stanchions with issues.

One is intact but will move through 15 degrees in any direction, the interior doesn't show any real damage but the glass pocket is cracked and obviously weakened.

The second one is broken in half. I have removed the retaining screw but this will not shift. As a corrosion engineer I recognise the fact that there is corrosion between the stanchion and pocket. A good pair of mole grips made no difference.

Does anyone have a clear idea on the actual structure of the stanchion and pocket and more importantly how to get the broken one out and to fix the waggly one?

If you have been through this then any advise more than welcomed.
Skykomish E29 11 years ago
I know a man who can help.... step forward please mr Chille Pepper. I believe that you replaced a stanchion only this summer.. your thoughts please
busy home [deleted] 11 years ago
Yes we did but I cant think how right now!!!
Tommorow I will go and photograph old bits and remind myself .
Bear with me ...
I know we bought a new one ..standard 24in nearly the same ?????
rothwell_neil 11 years ago
I have a new one, 24" and look perfect just need to get the old broken one out and work out what it sits in!
busy home [deleted] 11 years ago
Looked at my photos Goskar has different bases to Chilles
Chille has housings to accept the solid part with a screw into it,
Goskars seem to drop onto a stub (I have not managed to remove a stansion yet ) with a screwthrough the HOLLOW bottom !
I think I may have the same prob as you..
busy home [deleted] 11 years ago
Yes very difficult to pull off.. Try to remove screw, will prob. shear off
drill off screw head Tap around base use padded stilson etc etc
Waggle as req,,, See pics !
The deck area around stansions seem much weaker than Chilles
Perhaps they were beefed up on later boats?
Skykomish E29 11 years ago
yes I wouldn't want to trust themm supporting my weight if I fell against one in a heavy sea. I believe that there was comment about the benefits of lifelines around a yacht in Yachting monthly a while back and the false sense of security they impart. Still they are handy for clipping the washing to and those nice spray dodgers. But I think Lifeline is a missnoma
rothwell_neil 11 years ago
I will try the usual heat and WD 40 but looks to be fused together, may end up having to cut it off low down and then trying to split what is left with a hacksaw to prise it out. Any other ideas welcomed as that sounds sweaty.
admin
NormanKlipspringer 11 years ago
I think that the main safety problem with the stanchions is their height. If one is standing up then there would not be much to stop you going overboard if you fell towards them. However, if you fell on the deck and rolled against them then I am sure that mine would stop me (18stone) going over the side. If I have to go forward in a blow then i clip on and make sure I keep low down.
Sorry neil I cannot help with stanchion removal. I have not had to tackle this job 'yet'.
rothwell_neil 11 years ago
Chille
If Chille is 324 and Goskar is 700s then is there a difference between the two in terms of mountings?
The screw came out no problem along with lots of water, stilson did nothing but then I never was an Arnold Swarzeneggar. If Goskar and Chille have the same mounts then 541 must be the same and I can gicve it some welly or file a slot to give myself a chance. If Goskar is earlier then may be diferent mount and will have to take it easy.
busy home [deleted] Posted 11 years ago. Edited by busy home (member) 11 years ago
Goskar is 147
Chille is different to Goskar she has an upsidedown top hat The stanchion is solid at base and fits into this hat .
You may have to drill out the stub. after sawing off at base?
Or drill a hole in the solid ally to the bottom , tap a thread in and insert a bolt thus forceing them apart.
rothwell_neil 11 years ago
An update on the stanchion. Bit the bullet and replaced it, not a bad job once started.
I guessed the socket to be about 2-3 inches deep so cut the stanchion about 1" off the top of the socket. I then measured the actual depth and measured the maximum depth that my jigsaw went to, this came to 2.5" so cut another 3/8" off the top of the exposed stanchion. Then used the jigsaw to cut down the inside of the stanchion leg starting at a slight angle to get it going and then once down to the socket vertically. Did this front and back and then got the stilson on the top crushing the two slots. Came out a treat with only a few grunts and curses.
Photographs posted of this and a few others.

New one fits a treat but may be about 1/2" shorter than the old one. Not a problem and looks good.
rothwell_neil 11 years ago
Sorry also posted some photos of the job.
admin
NormanKlipspringer 11 years ago
Neil,
Don't forget to transfer your photos to the Achilles group. Only some of your early photos are there and it would be a shame if members missed out on this important work that you are doing.
rothwell_neil 11 years ago
Thanks Norman
Worked out how to do this and now posted photos.
Honda 5Hp now runs like a new engine and is as sweet as a nut. Worth the effort over christmas.
busy home [deleted] 11 years ago
Now you have the time why dont you pop down to S.W Cornwall one afternoon and pick up the one here. We could have a chineese together !!!!!!!!!
jendave1 8 years ago
Have started work on 'Shurig', first thing solving the rainwater leaks. Mostly through deck fittings, around the water inlet hose for the water tank (yet to be fitted!), pushpit mounting and chain plates. All of the chain plates were loose, probably never been looked at before, and water has been soaking through into the plywood.
All of the through fittings seem to have been put in with over-long bolts, which have then been cut off inside (bolt cutters?), consequently a lot of the threads are ruined. I have had to clean them up to manage to get nuts off & back on.
We have 3 loose stanchions, and I found water dripping below all 3. The GRP 'bowl' in which the stanchion base fits had cracked and by moving the stanchion you could feel some movement in the bowl.
My idea was to fit a jubilee clip around each bowl to hold it together then GRP over, and fill the gap in the top around the stanchion base with resin. I have fitted jubilee clips and graunched them up as tight as I could, and now we only have one loose stanchion!
I found you had to file away in places to get the clip to sit properly and get a good grip. The worst one was like stirring porridge before, but now there is only about 1/2" play at the top side to side, no movement fore & aft - there is a crack alongside that one at the top which is probably what's causing the play. I think once the clips are glassed over and resin fills in the gap at the top, then they'll all be servicable once again, and I will have solved the leak.
Will post some photos once the camera battery has charged up.
rothwell_neil 8 years ago
I had two broken completely with the pocket broken off from the deck. Glued them in place then just chopped strand matt and built it all up from below. No movement and have been great for past 2 years.
jendave1 8 years ago
Excellent, sounds like I'm on the right track.
rothwell_neil 8 years ago
I remember that I also poured some resin down the side of the stanchion from the outside as this was loose between the ball and the socket. Having removed two broken stanchions this shouldn't cause any trouble as the stanchion is inside the ball. My broken stanchions were corroded in and I used a jig saw with shortened blade to slice along the length and then they came out easily.

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