B&W Soup?

s2art 10:35pm, 19 October 2006
Black and White, what film developer and combo and why?
I use T-Max 400, for it's contrast, or lack of, and it's fine grain in D25 a home made soup that gives me long tonaly soft negs, that I can then further exploit in the darkoom in my favourite paper and devloper recipes, not forgeting toners of course.
Serge Marx 12 years ago
I've mostly stuck with Ilford products, FP4 and HP5 being staples in my film diet. Having said that, I'm making the move to T-max, as I agree with the contrasty goodness.

Using Ilford DD-X to develop, but again, going to start looking for a new developer - darkroom prints have been great, but neg scans not so...
s2art 12 years ago
» I've always been a fan of overexpsoure and undervelopment and anecdotally this appears to work well with scanning
lists&diagrams 12 years ago
i'm looking to start developing my own film. i'm shooting ilford pan-f, fp4 and hp5 (at 400, sometimes pushed to 800) and occasionally delta 3200 at 1000asa. i choose ilford because i'm a graphic design nerd and i like the boxes they come in.

what developer do you recommend? i like medium-high contrast and i can deal with grain.
Serge Marx 12 years ago
l&d - I've got about four tanks and numerous reels - would be happy to donate a tank to your cause if you want one. I scored a box of old darkroom equipment for nix a while back.

let me know if you're interested, I'll bring one to the next meet.

s2 - what would be the chances of having a darkroom session with a few of us one day? Would that be doable?
[xntrek] 12 years ago
re: darkroom session : yes please, that'd be good ... I'd like the opp to learn to d&p my own ...

re: b&w ... been an Ilford fan till now ... just discovered "Bluefire Police" b&w. It's been described as a panchromatic film which is meant to be a good Kodak Technical Pan replacement without the extended red sensitivity. So, I have ordered 12 rolls from the states and will get to play with it over the next month or so.
Serge Marx 12 years ago
damn, i think rob is right. this group is getting dangerous.

great link xn, might have to buy a bulk film loader....
Serge Marx Posted 12 years ago. Edited by Serge Marx (member) 12 years ago
just worked out you can buy a bulk reel (19 rolls of 36 ex) plus developer - working out to under $3.00 US per roll, developed. not bad! Whats' the shipping costs like xn?
[xntrek] Posted 12 years ago. Edited by [xntrek] (member) 12 years ago
from my invoice:

2*Solaris FG200 110-24 (package of 3) = 17.94
2*110-24 Fujicolor 200 (3-pack - dated 01/2006) = 13.98
1*Bluefire Police 135-24 (box of 12) = 71.30

Shipping/Handling 22.90

that's using USPS airparcel (1-2 weeks delivery time).

My favourite part of the invoice is this part:

Return Policy
We guarantee your satisfaction 100% for 30 days after you receive
your merchandise.
Serge Marx 12 years ago
another source:
memetic 12 years ago
I'm new when it comes to black & white film but it's something I want to get into, along with doing my own developing. I'd definitely be up for any workshops that are happening.

Since it'll be a while before I get into that, can anyone recommend any b&w C41 process film for now?
science 12 years ago
Oh I'm just starting to develop my own film too! I've got a tank so far and nothing else at all :)

I'm addicted to the ease of scanning C-41 black and white film though, it's way easier than normal B&W film I find.
Serge Marx 12 years ago
I'm not sure if we're allowed to call C-41 "black-white" around here... :o)

Science: In what way does the C-41 scan better than normal BW?

memetic - developing is by far the easiest part, and well worth looking around the net for a cheap tank and reel and thermometer. As long you can work a timer, read a thermometer and thread a spool with your eyes closed (actually that takes some practice!) you'll be right. I just researched it on on the net, bought the chemistry, and off I went.
[xntrek] Posted 12 years ago. Edited by [xntrek] (member) 12 years ago
Rhys - J and C is a nice link, thanks ... yay! film for everything! and Flash bulbs too!
science 12 years ago
scanning easier because

1) silverfast has negafix profiles for T400CN and HP..2?
2) ICE works :)

I'm sure you could get just as good results with normal B&W film, but it's just not as quick and easy.

I've just bought a bunch of Tmax400 though, so looks like I'm going to have to learn.
lists&diagrams 12 years ago
fotojux: thanks for the offer! i've got a tank + reels, i just need a dark bag and a thermometer. plus a timer and jugs and stuff but i'll get them from the supermarket.

i did a bit of developing and printing in high school, i'm sure once i start, it'll all come back to me.

that said, a darkroom session would be ace. i'd love to do some printing.
s2art 12 years ago
» s2 - what would be the chances of having a darkroom session with a few of us one day? Would that be doable?

can you expand on that a little rhys?
s2art 12 years ago
» that's an interseting link there xntrek, from the site it reminds me of Kodak Tech Pan film and Technidol developer
Serge Marx 12 years ago
well not sure if you have the means stuart, but if we could get use of a reasonably sized darkroom for a few hours, I'm sure many of us would love the opportunity to learn a bit more.

just throwing the idea out there. thoughts?
[xntrek] 12 years ago
Stuart : Yeah, they allude to the same in a couple of places.

For those interested, they actually have a formulary page.

As for the attraction, the benefits table is what got me initially. Never having used Kodak Technical Pan myself, I can't compare ... but the original manufacturers website has some interesting info.
s2art Posted 12 years ago. Edited by s2art (member) 12 years ago
» ok Rhys, I can get access to 20 enlargers, some condenser some diffusion, 2 sinks with room to hold 6 11' x 14' trays each, archival print washing facilities and RC and fibre paper print dryers, and a densitometer if folks want to calibrate, is that enough?

Cost for that kind of gig, is a whole other issue?

xntrek WOW, they published the formula. It's interseting that frugal doesn't mention Kodak coz it was for them their hard core fine grain film developer combo until about 2 years ago, now off the market, interstingly it came in 35mm 120 AND 5x4, not sure about 8x10, Ansel Adams talks about using it in a 5 x 4 shot in one of his books, it also had an unusual spectral response, but I can't remeber which part of the spectrum

[edit spelling]
s2art Posted 12 years ago. Edited by s2art (member) 12 years ago
» just read the benefits table, to all intents and purposes it's Tech Pan and Technidol for sure :D
Serge Marx 12 years ago
stu - sounds great! I'm sure we could get at least 10 of us... people?

well, what sort of cost are we talking, for what sort of time?
s2art Posted 12 years ago. Edited by s2art (member) 12 years ago
» need to talk to the boss, and need to come up with some sort of suggestion, perhaps a thread asking for ideas/needs,

Or maybe 2 x four sessions 1 x film processing and 1 x printing or 3 x 4 four hour sessions, 1 developing and 2 printing?
Serge Marx 12 years ago
we could incorporate our shoot into this... so we get some BW film between us, click off a few rolls, then head into the lab to develop and print...

Personally, printing is far more interesting than developing, so I'd be interested in that - so I'd say the 1 dev 2 print sesions sounds good.
s2art Posted 12 years ago. Edited by s2art (member) 12 years ago
» oh and for LandD I recommend Agfa Rodinal, good acutence, easy to use easy to raise contrast and easy to store small bottle etc
s2art 12 years ago
» depending on discussions I maybe able to wrangle some T-Max 400 film into the deal as well?
Serge Marx 12 years ago
can we get a show of hands who is interested in the darkroom session?
s2art 12 years ago
» off the top of my head and witihout consulting my boss,[sweats nervously] I reckon, 3 sessions @ $180.00 per head, with maybe a roll of film thrown in.
Serge Marx 12 years ago
is that including paper too s2?
s2art 12 years ago
» hmmmmmmm? Have to think about that one?
lists&diagrams 12 years ago
how long is a session?
Big_boss_man74 12 years ago
I am interested in this, I have started shooting B&W film and would call myself a noob at best, i would sincerely love to process my own
byte 12 years ago
sign me up... i might even get a PIC discount ;-)

and BYO paper, would be sensible.

@fotojux: i've got a dark film change bag (for my IR stuff) so I presume I can un-reel and then load it into the tank that way. now all i need to do is actually try this.. hmm...

is there a list somewhere that tells you what *exactly* you need for a homemade darkroom? better still, can i just pop into my favourite pro-lab and expect to buy a "b&w for dummies developer kit", plonk a hundred bucks down and walk away with what i need?
lists&diagrams 12 years ago
byte - i'm hardly an expert but recently i've been asking the same kind of questions you have. ilford has a great "getting started" pdf available for download here:

it has all the information you need to develop a roll of film. the only thing it doesn't go into enough detail with is how to load the film onto the spool. i recommend getting a roll of the cheapest stuff from the supermarket and practicing in daylight. once you're comfortable enough to do it with your eyes closed, then load up a roll of film you've shot.

i don't think many labs sell chemistry and equipment. they'd rather you paid them to develop your film, than you do it yourself. vanbar is regarded as the best photography equipment store in melbourne. they have everything, and the staff there have always been friendly, helpful and knowledgeable in my experience. they're not the cheapest source but they are reasonable.
Big_boss_man74 12 years ago
thanks l&d that is good information
Serge Marx 12 years ago
that's the link that got me started too, l&d - very handy

good advice re: practice roll. Impatience won the day the day for me on my first attempt, and I spent about an hour under the covers of my bed fumbling with the reel.

Patience is the best lesson I've learned, and not to be overly confident after a few sucessful rolls. one memorable roll was excitedly shot, then rushed home to be devved. Spooled it easily in my very cool dark room at the time (no dark room now alas!) into the tank, measured my chem, and off I went. except i hadn't calculated my water : developer ratio properly (should have been 1:4 but I mixed it 1:3) and as a result burned the bejeesus out the film - all details gone from the highlights (very weird faceless ghosts on those negs) - realising my error just as the time was up (I might have saved it by giving it substantially less time in the soup) - I neglected to fix it properly knowing the roll was ruined. I keep one strip of the ruined negative with my tank, to remind me to slow down and double check everything!

@byte - for a hundred bucks you could get what you need easily, which in chemicals is simpler a developer, a stop bath, a fixer and some photoflo - probably get all that for about sixty bucks, enough for a few dozen rolls (the fixer can be reused as long as it's free from impurites, but I prefer not to - when I was printing I'd use left over film fix for my paper fix - the stop bath will last for years - you only need a tiny bit each time (in fact water is OK as a stop bath some say, but I'm not convinced!) .

Vanbar sell everything you need, and they also have a good selection of paper and alternative process kits (I've got a C-type kit which I've never used, but wil get around to it one day.)

The magic moment of unravelling your roll after processing it yourself, and seeing actual images on the negative is priceless. There's a slight disbelief that it actually worked, and great sense of pride that you've done it yourself.
s2art 12 years ago
» I having been thinking a bit about this over the weekend.

Firstly, I have remembered that there is an issue re: securtiy and facilities at pic so there will be no film processing after hours till further notice :(

The darkroom sessions then will run for 4 hours and could possibly involve a short lecture in the first one.

I might blog an entry about stting up a darkroom if I can be arsed over the coming days.

Basically a darkroom needs to be dark, black plastic and pine frames anyone?

It needs some ventilation and electricity, running water is nice but not an abolsute need.

3 small cat litter trays can be used for dev stop and fix, some tongs are needed as well

A bucket can be used to hold prints till the end of the session, when washing can be completed with the lights on.

Development times should be around the 2 to 3 minutes, at 20 degrees C, try and be consistent. The dilution depends on the brand.

Stop bath 30 seconds dilution 1:16 or 10 mls to the litre, which is better for your health.

fix 1+4 30 seconds for RC paper, 2 minutes for fibre paper also @ 20 degrees C

wash for 10 minutes RC only

for extra archival permanence use a second fix as above then add HYPO Clearing Agent, by kodak, Ilford's product name is Rid Fix I think. 2 minutes for RC and 10 minutes for Fibre @ 20 degrees C

Wash for 10 minutes for RC and 1 hour for Fibre.

Air dry.

Hey presto a print
s2art 12 years ago
» three articles I wrote, along time ago, dealing with balck and white printing:-
byte 12 years ago
Thanks all, esp. l&d, and fotojux. I'll have to hop by to vanbar at some stage soon...

No darkroom, but I'll use my darkbag. This should be fun :-)

Thanks s2art for the darkroom print stuff - that much I've learnt at Nigel's excellent class. I don't have a dark enough room for a dark room, enlarger, etc. so I'll be pretty happy with just developing rolls at home, and then scanning them in.
[xntrek] 12 years ago
OK, so all of this has me thinking ... it may just be simpler for me to think about building a Darkroom (shed) out the back and processing my own film.

Now, that means I have two options after that.

1. Buy my own printing equipment

2. Buy a good negative scanner

While there is a certain enchantment with option 1, I'd like to know if anyone has gone down option 2? Pros, cons, stories of might and fright?
Serge Marx 12 years ago
I'm in the secnd camp, xntrek

I develop my own BW, then scan it on a Nikon LSIV

Results vary, some scan have been stunning, others less so - I'm yet to work out what the best film/devleopment for scanning is - although I think s2 has some tips.

If you're going to dev and scan, you don't need a dark room - just a change bag in which to spool the film onto the reel. Once it's in the tank and the lid is on, it's light tight - even when you pour your chemicals in there.

If you were planning on building a darkroom though, I migth consider loaning you my enlarger on a share basis.
thescatteredimage 12 years ago
I have been developing my own b&w for about 5 months now - just using a changing bag and the laundry to develop, then scanning the negs.

The scanner I bought is an Epson 4490 - it's a flatbed scanner with a light strip in the lid. It comes with templates for 35mm, slides and 120 film. It can do 12x35mm frames or 4 slides (I think), or 2 x 120(6x6) frames at one time - this means that it only does 1 frame on 120 film if it's bigger than 6x6. The scans are adequate and it's not too expensive considerting it can be used as a normal document scanner as well.

Just cut my own template out of cardboard to scan longer sections of 120 film - seems to work OK - don't know yet if I can get the automatic thumbnail feature to work with it though - it'd be nice to be able to get 4 x 6 by 6 frames to scan at one time, or even 2 x 6 by 9's.

I am usually shooting with Kodak Tmax 100 and 400 (both 35mm and 120), and Fuji Neopan 400 (mainly 120) - I like the look of both brands. I have tried Maco 400up and really like the graininess when pushed.

Mucking around with different developers, I have used Tetenal Ultrafin Liquid, Tetenal Ultrafin Plus, Ilford LC29 and am now using Rodinal. Haven't settled with anything I like best yet because I'm still experimenting. I like Rodinal now because it's cheap which I think is letting me experiment more - just because its cheap, I have 500ml of it and it works at high dilutions.

I think my style is starting to lean towards underexposing a touch and then underdeveloping a bit as well - as far as I can tell, this is giving me more contrast and "edginess" - however, maybe I'm doing that myself when scanning and then post processing in photoshop. Anyway, I've managed to get nice smooth tones of grey when using high dilutions and developing for 20 or so minutes - so now I can do that, I'll be concentrating on getting them dark and contrasty.

It's very rewarding and fun - don't anyone be too scared to try. With information gleaned from the internet (diy groups here on flickr as well) browsing through a few books and a little bit of guesswork and just "jumping in", I think anyone can do it.

Big_boss_man74 12 years ago
i am going to do it - thanks for all the info and pointers

I would love to print too, but will start with the development of the film first and then scan them in.

My wife is keen to print too, she isnt a photographer, however she is very creative and is keen to get involved in my photography, so watch this space : )
Serge Marx 12 years ago
a few tips from my mistakes....

put a couple opf clothes pegs on the bottom of your film to keep it from curling when you dry it. Very hard to scan curly film - plus buy some good quality neg holders so you're ready to file as soona sit it's dry. Give the film a blow with a air blower before filing.

never drag the film out of it's casing - pop the casing open with a bottle opener and remove the film completely - dragging it back through the film case can scratch it (and does!)

before starting, sacrifice a roll to practice the spooling.
Big_boss_man74 12 years ago
thanks for the tips
[xntrek] 12 years ago
hmnn ... A dedicated film scanner or a flatbed scanner?

I'm looking at either a Nikon Super CoolScan 9000 ED Film Scanner or a Canon 9950F or the Epson 4990 for flatbed options.

Opinions from the esteemed? Or anyone else for that matter 8-)=)
Big_boss_man74 12 years ago

this is a good link

I am not esteemed xntrek but i have heard rave reviews on the canon 9950F
I say down the flatbed scanner, go the dedicated mofo

lists&diagrams 12 years ago
s2 - where do you recommend i buy rodinal? vanbar doesn't list it on their website.
thescatteredimage 12 years ago
Vanbar do have Rodinal - that's where I got mine - it was early October sometime. Wasn't expensive - $16.50 for 500ml used in recommended dilutions is pretty good as far as I know about these things.
s2art 12 years ago
» L&D I doubt Vanbars would not have that developer very very popular and a good universal one at that, great valuer for money, as thescatteredimage points out in his post above.

if yo can't get it at Vanbar, Schreiber Photographics in Benteligh should be a good place to go, and of course there is Ted's and Micheals, but imo they are ALWAYS the most expensive around town, try the yellow pages too?
s2art 12 years ago
» xntrek go the dedicated film scanner, the Nikon has a good rep but I can't offer much beyond that
Serge Marx 12 years ago
I've got a dedicated film scanner - the Nikon Coolscan IV - it;s very good - but can't do 120 format. So now I'm buying a flatbed just for that purpose. Be aware fo what your scanning requirements are before you buy - and what you intend to do with the scans.
science 12 years ago
yeah as far I can work out if you're shooting 35mm, get a dedicated scanner as they're not actually horribly pricey. If you shoot medium format and have alot of cash, also get a dedicated MF scanner. If you shoot a mix and don't have a steaming pile of cash to dispose of, get an epson (possibly Canon, but dont have experience with them) flatbed.

As I use a mix and don't have a steaming pile of cash to dispose of I've been using an Epson perfection 4870 (flatbed) for a few years now and although not as good as good film scanner, it's really quite good, especially for the money.
yeled 12 years ago
if anyone wants any help buying this..

we could come to an arrangement on shipping etc :) i want that holder!
[xntrek] 12 years ago
mmm ... saw this as a good compromise - the "Microtek ScanMaker i900" but they charge a fortune for it down here ... I figured that including forex conversions, fedEx payments and potential customs fees, I can still save over $AUD 400 on importing one than buying it local.


I'll keep looking. In my case, I'd like to do 35, 120, 620, 110 and potentially Minox (8*11) negs as well. So a Flatbed may have to be an option for those last three anyhows.
Serge Marx 12 years ago
why don't we all chip in and get one of these:
lists&diagrams 12 years ago
fotojux: you should pony the cash, and rent it out.

i'm saving up for a nikon coolscan V
and by saving up, i mean dreaming about it and pissing up all my pay
cuddly dinosaurs [deleted] 11 years ago
Hi, I am a newbie to this and wanted to let you know I found this thread really helpful. I have just bought a second hand OM20 and some great lenses and can't wait to have a go. I have a question about starting out in this digital age. I don't have a darkroom setup but like the idea of film developing. Am I better developing negs and getting them scanned to begin with? Where in Melb would they do this? Or do I just go to Michael's and let them develop the negs and scan.
Serge Marx 11 years ago
Hi there risky Man

welcome to the Silver Mine... actually, seeing a new post in this thread inspired me to read it again, and yeah, there is some very helpful stuff in here... my bathroom hasn't had the lovely smell of fix in it for too long!

what lenses did you get with the OM20?I'm an OM user also.. (any one else in the silvermine using OM gear?)

Firstly, I'd avoid Michaels... too big, no love, no service. Bond Imaging in Richmond have been taking care of all my developing recently... they are great to deal with, easy to get to on the train or tram, and have my BW negs back in three hours. Which is nice! Even 120 film, which anywhere else takes days, if not weeks...

If you want to dev your own (and you should) head off to Vanbar in Carlton... you can pick up all the chem you need, and of course tank and change bag and measuring jugs... although you're prbly better off looking on ebay for that stuff as sadly folks are getting out of the game in droves. As for scanning... if you've got a decent scanner, do it yourself, but failing that Bond will dev and scan a roll in high res (32MG files) for $39 and medium res (18MG for $18). I've never had a scan fromt hem, so can't vouch for the quality. I think Vinnie (museum of dirt) does though, so check out his shots.
Museum of Dirt Posted 11 years ago. Edited by Museum of Dirt (member) 11 years ago
hey Risky-man.

Welcome to the Mine.

Unless you use Kodak T400CN, most regular labs can't help with B&W. T400CN uses the same chemicals as colour to develop. For that - B&W - I'd definately suggest Bond . Yes, it is where I get my work done and yes, I'm very happy with their work.
I usually get develop, proof (for my 'filing') and 5mg, 300 DPI scans.
It is pricey, but I think it's either that - with a mob I trust, than the local 1Hr lab staffed by people passing by.
Colour, well, any lab can do it, but again, I prefer Bond for most. Slide should go to Bond too.

Before I start sounding like an ad, there are other good labs around too, CPL in StKilda - I think. A couple others.

My general personal suggestion would be though, starting out, to get a 'feel' for using B&W and get a lab to do the lot - at least for the first few rolls - before lashing out on all the scanner and other gear.
But definately try to get on to developing and scanning your own work ASAP after that. It's cheaper and way more rewarding. You'll learn heaps more and faster.

um, I think that's me for now.
Let us know how ya go, and get in touch if you want Bond's details.
cuddly dinosaurs [deleted] 11 years ago
Thanks for the advice guys. I will have to check out Bond. The scanners are pricey at about $500. The camera gear I bought off ebay are zuikos 50mm 1.8, 28mm 3.5, and zoom 35-70mm 4. The 28mm was sold by this 70 year old lady who used it photograph flowers and loves her new digital camera with her arthritis! The lens looks like it only came out of the box on Sundays.
science 11 years ago
Yep I'm using OM gear also

Zuiko 50mm 1.4
Zuiko 24mm 2.8
Tokina AT-X 50-250

I love it, it's always been my favourite camera ever :)
Serge Marx 11 years ago
hmmm.. nice kit, hamish

I just picked up an OM1 MD, with 28mm f3.5 70-150 f4 , all main colours of hoya filters, accessory shoe 1, lens cases, brown OM ever-ready, original lens cases, all in superb condition. add that to the om2 and om4, and the 50s 1.4 and 1.8 and 135 f3.5 that I already had...


l love my OM gear :)
memetic 11 years ago
Stupid question: what's the best way to get 35mm out of the cassette in a changing bag - break it open or pull the film back out with a tool?
thescatteredimage 11 years ago
Chris - pop the top off with a bottle or can opener. I use the bottle opener bit on our can opener. Sometimes they need a bit of coaxing, depending on the manufacturer.
thomask 11 years ago
my bottle opener lives on my key ring, so i'm never without it - for those little booze and film emergencies
Serge Marx 11 years ago
yep - i use a can opener on the bottom to get it started, then push it away with my thumb

then i turn the cannister upside down and prod down on the spindle - grabbing the roll by the edges - then i find the leader, grasp it and let the roll unspool evenly to the bottom of the bag. I grope, find my scissors, trim the leader, then, holding the film by the first 1cm or so, begin the thread into the spool.
memetic 11 years ago
Cool thanks :)
memetic 11 years ago
Ok, new challenge...

I have a roll of Neopan 400 that I want to "pull" 2 stops to ISO100 in developing. Can it be done with that film and how do I do it?

With my D76 I would've been doing a development time of 5:15 at 24degC. How would this change for pulling?

I had a bit of a Google and didn't come up with much. If anyone has an answer or a great link, it'll be much appreciated.
thescatteredimage Posted 11 years ago. Edited by thescatteredimage (member) 11 years ago
Disclaimer: I have not tried this before.

I had a little bit of a search through google and didn't find any specifics. But here's a link that might steer you in the right direction ... don't worry that the original post is about TriX, there's discussion on other film further down and it may get you into the ball park ...

Sorta looks like you need to reduce your time by about 20% to say 4:15 at 24deg ... maybe you should develop a little cooler because that's starting to get very short and you could run into uneven developing.

The massive dev chart has data for Neopan 400 rated at ISO250 using stock D76 for 6.5min @ 20degC, this is 1min slower than developing Neopan 400 at 400. If I was going to have a crack at this, i'd give it a go for 6min @ 20degC and see what happens ... maybe even 5:30min ...
memetic 11 years ago
Excellent, thanks for that Rob!
thomask 11 years ago
» I've always been a fan of overexpsoure and undervelopment and anecdotally this appears to work well with scanning

any more specifics on this s2? how much underdeveloping would be enough, or too much? say if your shots were overexposed by a stop or two... judging only by the available light and an exposure chart.
thescatteredimage Posted 11 years ago. Edited by thescatteredimage (member) 11 years ago
@thomask - sometimes the Massive dev chart will have times for this and is a good starting point. They don't have data for all films and developers for different ratings, but check it out anyway. I have heard that a rough rule of thumb is to drop 10% in dev time for 1 stop ... it may be different for two stops ... might have to wait for an answer from s2 ...

e.g. from the massive dev chart ... Agfa APX 100 rated at ISO100 is 13min in Rodinal 1:50 @ 20degC. Rated at ISO50, it's 11.5min in Rodinal 1:50 @ 20degC.
thomask 11 years ago
ah yeah thanks rob, sometimes i get a bit lazy on the clinky clinks.

s2 has given me his patented "everything in photography is a tradeoff" brushoff ;)
thescatteredimage 11 years ago
Ahhh yes ... but it is.

I'm trying to get myself to systematically find a combo I'm happy with using the same type of film and developer ... I've been jumping around trying different things for too long now. Gotta standardise ... but that means a lot of trial and error and testing. Start somewhere and check the results. Then adjust next time, if that doesn't work, adjust more or adjust the other way.

There's too much info easily available on the interweb that discourages us from testing and experimenting ...
Serge Marx 11 years ago
science 11 years ago
I just follow the instructions on the packet and leave it at that :>
memetic 11 years ago
Same here :) ... except for agitation.
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