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I have a Nikon d300 which can fine tune the back, front focus issues, however the Tokina 11-16 , in my opinion di not just cause back focus issue too it really was de-centered in its alignment and caused soft images.
Three weeks ago received the 11-16 lens from B & H. Immediately went out to take some pics on my D300. Used a tripod, timer, f/8, mirror up, self timer.., anyway when I downloaded the pics, they were unsharp, center and corner , at 50-100% magnification. Really was disappointed. Tried again, got the same results. Returned the Tokina 11-16 for the 12-24. Maybe just had a bad copy? I dont see paying $200 more. At least not for me.
Posted 33 months ago.
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This is why I've been waiting over three months now for delivery of this lens. Tokina in Japan are hashing out the problems . Tokina in Japan are not a "Nikon" or "Tamron" or "Sigma" sized company. They are much smaller with a smaller crew of engineers trying and wanting to get it right. They as a company were overwelmed by the influx of new orders for this lens and basically stumped them with stock levels deminishing due to the popularity demand for this lens. I quote this from a knowledgeable person at "Henrys- Oakville Ontario CDN. Hopefully ,when I get my copy all will be well with this new upcoming batch.
Posted 33 months ago.
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Yeah I've had this problem.
It happens in bad light and when the background has more contrast than the foreground.
You take a picture and notice that the foreground or your subject is out of focus.
I tend to manually adjust the focus or focus on something closer to me to compensate.
I still feel that the 'wideness' causes the autofocus to get confused.
It feels like it's not 100% compatible at times.
Thing is, I could swear it's getting better the more I use it. Could it be that the contacts need a certain breaking in period?
Posted 33 months ago.
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Hmm...I don't know. It would be odd if it did get better over time. It's having trouble focusing wide open even when there's no contrast in the background. However, I've run even more tests with it at some of the different zoom levels and at even more aperatures and I have to say that I really think I've gotten the hang of it. I'm getting razor razor razor sharp images with manual focus. I've been shooting my bookshelf from about 7 feet away and then checking close-crops of the titles on the spines of the books. I'm constantly amazed at how crisp I can get it compared to the autofocus. Even at smaller aperatures and at 11mm, I can still beat the AF at 11mm and f/9, for instance. I mean NOTICEABLY beat the AF! At this point, I'm wondering if I should even bother exchanging it since I've become so handy with the MF. It makes me wonder if I should run these tests on all my lenses, just to figure out how my MF compares to the lens's AF.
Mind you, I'm using the D90's "rangefinding" feature. I'm not just eyeballing it. My eyes aren't capable of do that looking through a wide lens. I don't even do that if I manually focus my zooms.
Posted 33 months ago.
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I use this lens with a Nikon D70s and have strong back focusing errors. I manually focus the lens most of the time and its really tough to use it for moving subjects. I also experience back focusing issues with my nikon 18-70mm.
Posted 33 months ago.
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yes! wow, i just noticed this posting and i was gonna post something relating to this issue
serious focusing problems, i'm thinking about returning it to get fixed under warranty. when i was out of town the lens started making a small grinding sound and it didn't focus at all... like the motor was broke inside
i got home and it seemed to be working again all of the sudden.
recently i have been trying to use it on portraits of people and when i view the photo on the computer, it ends up that the subject is out of focus, but whatever is behind her is in focus
and this is at f/4.
danggg im annoyed cause this lens is great other than these issues
Posted 33 months ago.
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To illustrate the points I've made above, I've included two SOOC shots here--only editing is a tight, center crop on the originals. The first shot is at 16mm f/2.8 using center-point focus, auto focus mode. The distance from the camera is about 7 feet. The second shot is the same shot, from the same distance, only I manually focused the shot using the "rangefinder" feature on my D90 and stopped on the "short" end of the rangefinder's focus indicator.
1. Auto-Focus
2. Manual-Focus
Posted 33 months ago.
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The testing continues... It is worth noting that the brighter the subject I photograph, the better the AF works. For well-lit subjects, the AF is almost perfect. However, this too degrades as you zoom out from 11mm or increase the size of your aperature.
Posted 33 months ago.
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Hi guys, just wondering, when you mentioned AF, is it Single Point? Or are you using "Auto-Area" (if Nikon, forgot what Canon calls this).
As my general rule, I always use Single Point for my wides, just because the scene elements tend to be smaller and harder for the camera to 'catch' the right contrast areas.
I've had no trouble using Single Point AF even with wider apertures (2.8~4) in different scenes.
Or like mentioned it might be a bad batch for some guys and I got lucky.
So, which AF mode were you using?
Posted 33 months ago.
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I shoot a D80 and also have poor autofocus - at least at fairly close range. I tested a second copy of the lens but did not get any better results on my body. It was tack sharp on a D300s.
I am going to send my lens to TKH - Tokina support for the US.
zemlinphoto.com/misc/Tokina 11-16 Focus Tests/
Posted 33 months ago.
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I ran the test you see photographed above with single point. Center-point to be specific. The center-point was right on the Genius book on the shelf.
The fact that the lens operates well on a D300 suggests that the problem is not with the lens but with the D80's camera's ability to use it. I've read that the D300 has a function to adjust backfocusing issues so it's AF technology may just be better at coping with wide-angles in general. Thus, a second copy didn't yield better results on the D80 body.
I've decided to keep my lens. After all my tinkering, I've become pretty good at focusing it, and if I get stellar MF results, who cares, right? At least I'm getting good results. I doubt I'll ever use a wide angle for any action shots, so the AF problems aren't going to hamper my shooting. I think that sending your lens back isn't going to help. You should do some MF shooting at fixed distances, focal lengths, and aperatures to see how fit the lens really is. Only use the AF when you're shooting in bright light, zoomed out, and stopped down at least to f/4.
I have a bit of advice for the MF, using the "rangefinder" green dot in the viewfinder: Focus from in front of the object and move toward a rearward focus. When you get right on the the "front" of the object and the rangefinder dot starts flickering (don't keep going to the point when it's permanently lit) stop there and shoot. I get razor-sharp results right there.
Posted 33 months ago.
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The folks at THK seem confident that they can resolve the issue, so I'll give them a shot. What have I got to lose, except a few weeks without the lens.
I don't rely on the green dot for manual focus - I look at the image in the viewfinder and make it sharp.
Posted 33 months ago.
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I'll usually look through the lens too, but with a lens this wide, you can't see enough detail through the viewfinder unless you're right up on your subject. As the photos above show, the method that works on my D90 (at least) is fool-proof.
You're more patient than I. I don't want to go without my lens.
Posted 33 months ago.
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I have had mine for 6 months. I bought it in Japan and have had no problem with it. I often use it for long exposure night work and have had no problem with AF in low light at all. I will keep my fingers crossed that nothing goes wrong.
Posted 33 months ago.
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mine has perfect focus on my d2x but back focus severely when i had a d80... hm.
Posted 33 months ago.
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Might really be the focusing ability of the camera in low contrast & light conditions then. This especially should go away if you use a speedlight's AF illuminator.
I suppose being careful is the best advice for D80 users =\
Thanks all for sharing their experience with this lens!
Posted 33 months ago.
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I shoot mostly rock shows in very low light with my D70. Auto focus is great with my 35mm f/1.8, 50mm f/1.8 and 85mm f/1.4 but with the Tokina things are whack.
In low or changing light at 11mm focus is a crapshoot. Maybe one out of twenty shots actually focus and fire off when commanded. I usually slam it into MF quickly and hope for the best - since capturing the moment is just as important as having it in focus - but recent results have been downright disappointing. Frankly, I haven't had more than a handful of images come out crisp in quite awhile. My sample appeared to function well for a month or two then fail, oddly enough.
I emailed Tokina support and they had me send the lens back to them on an RMA. After waiting about eight weeks it came back with the same problem although Tokina cited a "CPU" component being replaced, which apparently they had been waiting on. I'll be doing some more tests before contacting them again, just to make sure it's not my aging D70.
My next step is to try it on a another AF-D-ready film/digital body to see what happens. I don't have direct access to any other Nikon AF bodies (digital or film) at the moment, unfortunately, so that'll have to wait. For now I'm going to just keep plugging away with the lens, hoping it decides to fix itself...
Posted 32 months ago.
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Does your lens have a serial number? Let's have the faulty users compare them, we might be able to find a trend =]
Posted 32 months ago.
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I purchased a Tokina 11-16 from B&H in early September 2009 and quickly found it soft. I found it a little difficult at first to be certain, since I was not use to the field of view. However I noticed that the range scale on the lens was off (e.g. at 7 ft the indicator was at infinity) and if I adjusted the manual focus such that the range scale on the lens agreed with the distance then I had a tack sharp photo. Then I took pictures at 16mm f/2.8 autofocus and then in manual focus turned back and 1/8 inch or so; manual focus was tack sharp, AF was not sharp at all. Even at f/8 it still was never sharp autofocused. The difference was became obvious.
So what to do, I thought about exchanging it for another 11-16, exchanging for another lens, or sending it for warranty repair. After looking around, I decided that I still only wanted the 11-16 for the aperture, manageable distortions, and sharpness. So it was between exchanging it at B&H and sending it to THK (US distributor) for warranty repair. Through several emails, I found THK to be responsive and they acknowledged the problem that I was describing. They stated that they were confident that they could fix it. Given the acknowledgement and the confidence of repair statement from THK, I chose to send to them for repair. Part of my thinking was that a repaired lens from THK would surely be fixed, but if I exchanged it I would be going back to a random sampling process. I also assumed it would be faster, but it took a month, which is the apparent resupply time for B&H. B&H was also very friendly and helpful during my RMA decision making process.
I just got my lens back, and they replaced it (it has a lower serial number –original was 824xxxx and now I have 823xxxx). I have been shooting for a couple days now, and I can say that I finally got the lens that I thought I was going to get. It produces wonderfully sharp photos.
I have seen others question whether to send it back for exchange or send it in for repair. So, I thought I would offer my own experience. I am not saying my route was the best one, as I had forsaken the ability to return/exchange my lens with B&H, which is a big deal in my opinion. THK seems to have an excellent reputation and I was very satisfied with the responses and service that I received from them. Nevertheless, I would encourage anyone that has the same problem to do additional research.
I am disheartened that Tokina is still apparently having problems after a year by what I consider a great lens. I hope my experience is an indication that they have a bead on solving it.
Posted 32 months ago.
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Thanks Richie_sails,
I should be receiving my second 11-16 lens in a couple days from B H. The first was way too soft, center and boarder, even at f/8 !! , tripod mounted, mirror up, cable release, etc, etc, ......but I didnt check the manual focusing at that time. So I just returned it for a refund.... Hopefully I would receive a "good" one this time. I will also check the autofocus vs. manual focus results this time around too. If I get a dud again, I will send it to tokina for repair. I still think that its worth it to deal with the frustration of this lens..
I would like to use this lens and my nikon 35mm 1.8 lens in an aquarium.
Since the light in those places are dark and difficult to begin with. This fast UWA lens ( f/2.8) might produces interesting and unusual results?!
Originally posted 32 months ago.
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lifetooshort1 edited this topic 32 months ago.
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Received the second 11-16 lens. I was so excited to try it out and check focus issues and sharpness. Well, this lens was better then the the previous copy, BUT...still issues with front focusing and it focuses to infinity on occasion when I was three feet away from the subject!?.. I am torn between sending the lens back to B & H for a refund and call it a day or send it to Tokina for repair. I love everything else about the lens, the quality, the f/2.8, and the limited range of 11-16 doesn't bother me either. I have the 18-105 lens, which is a fine walk around lens. With the Nikon D300 I am able to adjust front/back focus issues. I adjusted the the 18-105 lens and it works like a charm. The Tokina was front focusing so severly, that I was not able to adjust it . Also it appears the lens is slightly de-centered (sharp on the left-soft on the right). I find the center just not being sharp even at f/8 or f/11. I tired focusing this lens manually with , unfortunately, similar results. What should I do??
Posted 32 months ago.
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The serial # of my lens is 82451XX. I am in a such dilemma. Should I send to Tokina for repair, get a refund?! or call it a day and just get a Nikon!
Posted 32 months ago.
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www.flickr.com/photos/560/4043367433/sizes/o/
Looks like my testing is complete. Gonna send mine back to Tokina for more analysis. 8231039 is my serial number. Dunno if I got a bad batch or just a random bad sample - it seemed to work well at first (shooting at smaller apertures like f/5.6 and f/8) but for my primary use - wide open in dark venues - it doesn't like to focus well. Friends of mine have the same lens and seem to have much better copies but, alas, mine continues to confound me.
It's not even a back-focus issue or an autofocus issue - it just seems to stop before it reaches infinity focus. The problem seems to be less severe at 16mm but at 11mm any photos of subjects beyond 7-10 feet are useless.
Going to send an email to Tokina regarding another RMA. Hopefully it won't take eight weeks this time - I've got alot of big shows to shoot over the next few months and no money to buy/rent a replacement ultra-wide.
Posted 32 months ago.
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Just got my lens back from THK (Tokina support in the US). AF issue seems to be resolved. My s/n is 8240XXX
Originally posted 32 months ago.
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zemlinphoto.com edited this topic 32 months ago.
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I did not notice this issue until my student borrowed it and shot people around. I was disturbed. So far, I can only see that it does have back focus issue on certain occasion when used at people.
But, when AF at objects, it seems alright. I still have to run several personal test to confirm and have it checked while it is still in warranty range.
It's indeed a bit difficult to MF, but I am willing to learn how to do it quickly. :)
For long exposures, I think back focus in much of an issue since most of the time you'll be using smaller apertures.
Posted 32 months ago.
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I think that people backfocus problem is only when you use AutoArea focus and all the focus points simply don't happen to be over a person, hence it focuses behind them. Single point focus should fix this.
Posted 31 months ago.
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"I think that people backfocus problem is only when you use AutoArea focus"
I ONLY use single-point focus. This was not the issue with me. There was clearly an issue with AF on D80 bodies. Since getting the lens back from THK it seems to be on-target now. They replaced the CPU.
Posted 31 months ago.
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Yeah, I agree , I also only used the single-point focus, and still had focus issues with the d90 and d300 camera body. I have send it out also to Tokina for repair. I will keep you guys posted...cross my fingers, LOL
Posted 31 months ago.
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With the single center point of my Canon T1i (the only cross-point type sensor) my Tokina 11-16 (s/n 8238654) focuses well at 11mm and f/2.8 but with multiple points or a non-center point it has trouble though for me it is front-focusing. For much of the shooting today I bet my images would have been sharper if it had gone to infinity or if I had just manually set it there.
If it works with the center cross-point AF should I consider it an OK copy? Or should I have them try to fix it? Guess I'll play with it for the weekend at least.
Posted 31 months ago.
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dantorresphotography [deleted] says:
I also have the lens in Canon mount and it behaves the same way as most of you describe. Always soft, AF not able to nail proper distance. I just gathered all my paperwork and hopefully will be sending it back to THK to see what can be done about it.
Posted 31 months ago.
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I had much better luck with it today though it still seems short focused at times, stopping at or before 7 feet when I think it should be at or near infinity focus. HOWEVER, using ZoomBrowser to see what focus points it actually used it seems obvious why using all the focus points sometimes confuses it. It seems to choose the closest point and with such a wide view it is easy to get a foreground object as the focus choice. One point or better yet, center point seems to focus more correctly. Got some good shots today. If I know I'm going to be focusing beyond 7 feet I might as well just put it at manual focus infinity and leave it there. I'll see how much it bugs me and will ask the store about it on Monday. I shot a lot of images Friday and today and will likely do more tomorrow as well.
Posted 31 months ago.
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I returned two Tokina 11-16 lens with this focusing problem on my D300. Just short of infinity at 6 or 7 feet the camera would confirm focus and allow me to take a photo in the focus release mode, except that the lens hadn't moved from infinity.
It didn't seem to exhibit this problem at closer distances of 1 or two feet.
I thought about keeping the lens, I'm sure I would shoot the majority of pictures at infinity with such a wide angle lens, and it is incredibly sharp but that focus thing would always bug me.
Posted 30 months ago.
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Mine has done really well in the 4 weeks since I got it. Taken hundreds of pictures, using central point only the focus seems really good. Very glad to have kept mine.
Posted 30 months ago.
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I am very new to photography. I got a D90 with the 18-105 vr,.and i bought also the 50 mm 1.8 d. This is a magic lense. Two weeks before i went to a local store for a Tokina 11-16, despite the fact that i had the suspicion of all these problems of bad focusing. Unfortunately i have the same problem. When the objects are up to 1 meter away, focus is very efficient and the it seems that gives Very crisp results at 11mm -2.8f , more than 16mm. ..BUT when the object is more far than 1 meter the focus is completely inconsistent going usually at + infinity..!!!
When i am using the Live view , then most of the times it focus perfect as long as there is some lighted target. Also with Live view and Manual focus...BUT you are losing time NOT having the Auto focus working well...IT is REAL annoying. I dont know what to do .to keep the lens or sent it to Germany ..to be fixed, and so on...!!!
Also i had a look at this www.flickr.com/groups/nikond90club/discuss/72157622803534...
The D90 has not the option of micro adjust. So what do you think?? some ideas?
....thanks a lot
Posted 30 months ago.
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My solution was to send the lens to THK for warranty service. It took just a few weeks and came back working very well. I tested a second copy a the store and it was not much better than the first one I bought. Both lenses were sharp on a D300s.
They said the replaced the CPU in my lens.
Posted 30 months ago.
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Thank a lot zemlinphoto.com..! i give them a try after cristmas....
lets hope to fix it. but i will ask them not to give another copy. Just the same serial. I have to tell that it is very sharp at 11mm at 2.8, but quite soft at 16mm 2.8 etc... is this strange?
Posted 30 months ago.
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Check my post about 1/2-way up the page. I have a link to focus test shots I took before the repair. I have not repeated the test since the repair - but it seems to be hitting the mark now.
Posted 30 months ago.
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About a month ago I borrowed a tokina 11-16 from a friend and used it for a day on my Nikon D7000. I absolutely fell in love with it.. Every thing was great about it.
So I decided to buy one for myself today.. On my way home, I took about 50 photos with it. Unfortunately the results were disappointing. Specifically there were two problems. A lot of shots came out of focus (even stopping down to F/8) and then at a number of occasions the camera wouldn't accept the focus at infinity and refused to take a shot.. (e.g. no focus sound on the AF-S). None of the shots at 16 mm were in focus.
I came home, researched a bit and using a FIne Tune setting of '-18' took some more shots. Now the results seem great, things are in focus, but I am not sure if the other problem of the camera of no focus is fixed yet.
I would love to keep this lens but I am not sure if I should. If I return this, I won't get another one for at least a month or more. Also where I live, we have no warranty for Tokina. If there is a problem, its as good as dead.
What should I do?? Is it ok to keep a lens which would only focus with the Fine Tune Settings?
Originally posted 7 months ago.
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fabhatti edited this topic 7 months ago.
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The fine tune settings is there just for this (*); if you you solved and now are fine with the lens then keep it.
(*) Almost every cameras have a table with those settings, but generally it is accessibile only through assistance software. The D7000 and other cameras allow the user to modify that table without sending the camera and lens to the assistance.
Originally posted 7 months ago.
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Alessandro_Strano edited this topic 7 months ago.
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I have found that by using only the center focus point, the lens will auto-focus fine. If I use all of the focus points on my Canon 7D, then it tends to focus on things that I don't realize are in the frame. With the tremendous depth of field, most of my shots are focused just short of infinity. They seem to be focused. I am not a professional and just take pictures for my own enjoyment and I really like the lens. As was mentioned earlier, maybe I was lucky and got a good copy.
These were taken with autofocus turned on.
I usually focus manually with the lens in low light situations if the thing of interest is close up.
Originally posted 7 months ago.
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banjoplayer1984 edited this topic 7 months ago.
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Hi all, I too have suffered from this condition. Sent the lens in got it back and was told it was in need of adjustments and fixed. That weekend went out to shoot and it was "better" but definitely not fixed. The lens has a warranty, if it is not "right" take it in, with examples showing the focus point in the picture AND other lens shots to prove its not the camera that is the problem. I got my lens back in a week and have heard from others the return time is reasonable, and hey for free its better to use it until you are happy, right, its part of what you paid for with a new lens!
I took the lens on a weekend trip and noticed that landscape shots and distance night shots were razor sharp, corner to corner. This got me thinking a bit, then the other night I was shooting stars and star trails and while warming up inside I came across the center vs periphery focus point issues.
I use a Nikon D90 so the center point is the only cross point focal point and the Tokina focuses dead on using this in some primitive tests done so far. There was always the issue of focusing from infinity vs focusing from closer distance where there would be some issues (hopefully this is what was fixed in my lens). End point being, cross point focusing (center on the D90, might be more on others) seems to work better and more consistently than others focus points.
Remember, while this lens is great and produces stunning shots most of the time, it is 3rd party and has to reverse engineer the intended body's focus technology to work on a variety of bodies and tolerances are not 100% so there is some instances it will not work as well as original manufacturers lenses. Its still a darn fine lens and for the price the build quality and results are still well worth the unique idiosyncrasies.
Posted 7 months ago.
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I received my 11-16 yesterday, but had no time to try it out yet. After reading the comments here I wonder if I should even keep it. Up to now I bought only Nikon lenses and never had a problem with them.
I'm not good at fine tuning things when I'm in a hurry. Many of mine are spur of a moment shots, like wildlife, birds, trains and so on. It's hard to predict what will appear next. Often I carry both, my Nikon D300 and the Nikon D5000 with different lenses just to be prepared.
Hopefully I will have time on the weekend to play with the lens. If it does not work for me I will return it on Monday. Sure wish I had read the postings here first.
Originally posted 7 months ago.
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Stella Blu edited this topic 7 months ago.
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I wouldn't worry too much about it, just be mindful you will want to focus only with the cross point focus points on the D300. As the D5000 lacks in-body motor if you use the lens with that body it MF only so no issue. I can't remember if the D300 allows for sensor fine tuning for lenses, if so its not that much of a deal.
This issue is mainly for low light, indoor, are wide open shooting. Most landscapes or UWA shots outside are done at f/8 or above as this lens lets in a LOT of light so the focus issue is negated beyond 10~12 meters I think. Indoor shots is where I found out using the center cross point focus point on the D90 produced the best and most consistent in focus shots. Again, each lens has its own quirks and the IQ this lens is capable of is well worth the extra "trouble" of checking and paying attention to settings and what the camera is doing to get the best shot.
I would suggest setting up a quick test to verify it is working properly first. Measure out objects from the focus plane mark on the camera which is mounted to a tripod and to the marked lengths on the lens and place items perciesly at those distances (use a tape measure). Use items with text or texture details and take shots at all focal lengths, from f/11 down to wide open. The examples will let you know if there are any issues with the lens. Its important to know what focus point is selected and used and ensure its a cross type.
Posted 7 months ago.
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I think you will enjoy the lens. When I used all of the focus points on my Canon 7D, I had problems with the lens focusing on items that I didn't pay attention to in the frame. I got around this by using the center focus point to set the focus and then frame the picture. ( I just take pictures for my own entertainment, not a professional. So maybe I don't need to have pixel perfect photographs for a client) I might have been lucky to get a "good" copy of the lens, but I really enjoy using it and think that it is built very well and produces very good quality pictures. Hope you enjoy your lens as much as I enjoy the one that I have. It gives a different perspective than my other lenses and I always like having a new way of looking at the world. :-)
Originally posted 7 months ago.
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banjoplayer1984 edited this topic 7 months ago.
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The lens seem to be ok. Like you recommended here, I took some test shots. They turned out fine, but where kind of boring. I never uploaded any of them.
Today I saw the sunset when I drove home, pulled into a parkinglot and tool a few shots with the Tokina. Just hand held in low light. I left the camera on auto focus. Wanted to know how they turn out. I posted them to the group.
Posted 6 months ago.
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Hi,
without a valid warranty you can have your lens serviced but you have to pay for it.
Noise (Strictu sensu) is related to camera sensor, not to the lens. Perhaps you meant simply not sharp. Try some shots in live view (let the camera to focus) to see if there is any improvment (if you note an improvment you have a focus trouble), if not post some shots (excluding operator errors or expectations, the lens could have a misaligned element and in that case you won't get sharp shots even in manual focus).
Originally posted 6 months ago.
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Alessandro_Strano edited this topic 6 months ago.
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Well folks, thank you again for this very useful thread. After some other developments and careful consideration I've decided to part ways with my lens :( I just don't have the time to dedicate to getting it sorted and/or mastering the focus issues right now. I'm going to put the money towards a D300s though so it's not all bad :)
Posted 6 months ago.
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If folk are having focus issues wit this lens I take they're trying the lens on other bodies to confirm it is the lens at fault, especially D7000 or even D300 owners?
Originally posted 5 months ago.
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TheOriginalSteve edited this topic 5 months ago.
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Got mine about 7 days ago and finally took it out for a spin. The lens is sharp, even at f2.8, and the focus is spot on.
Aperture priority with auto ISO on the 7D can be a problem. The auto ISO algorithm tends to set the shutter speed to slow. This is easy to get around.
The light meter acts a bit differently at 11mm. Changing the meter setting should solve the problem. Silhouettes are nice, but only when I want them.
Wide angle portraits are good. Although, people tend to freak out when I put the lens in their face.
Time to learn a new lens.
Paul
Posted 5 months ago.
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Congrats and enjoy the new lens.
Posted 5 months ago.
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My 11-16 is sharp as a blade on 16mm yet when I zoom out to the wide end, it will focus a few inches further away even though the camera hasent actually moved.. I dont actually need any AF correction at 16 but it back focusses like mad at the 11mm end.
My other Nikon lenses (apart from the 24mm) are razor sharp at every distance and every focal length so that should rule out the D7000 body.
It may need a service!
Posted 5 months ago.
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Tokina AT-X 116 Pro DX (F2.8 11-16mm) /
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